St. Arnaud is the gateway to Lake Nelson Nstional Park and the surroundings are beautiful. When finally after two days the heavy rain ceased to fall out of the sky, we head for Murchison. It was a beautiful day, although at times the wind was so strong we had to get off our bikes. For the next 3 days we would be following the Buller river, an impressive and huge stream that hollers from Lake Nelson towards the sea. Cycling on these roads in such impressive landscapes has been one of the best cycling experiences we have ever had. Nature here is so overwhelming, it made us feel like tiny little ants.
By the time we got to Owen River the weather started to turn ugly and we were doubting if er should continue as the risk of heavy rain was getting higher. Just when we thought to set up camp at Owen Junction, Ben and Saskia, our dear friends who helped us out in Turangi, drove up the car park where we had lunch! Vanessa and Ella hopped on board of the campervan and I cycled the remaining 20 km into Murchison through some serious rainfall.
In Murchison we decided to stick together and have New Year´s Eve together in a tacky motel called "Mataki Hotel". I couldn´t have said it better myself!
New Year´s Eve was awesome. It was brilliant to spend it with Ben, Saskia and Dixie Lou.
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Sunday, December 27, 2009
First week in the South Island
Hello hello guys and dolls,
We arrived at Picton on the 20th of december late at night and in the rain. No worries though, we had booked a cabin the day before in probably the smallest campsite we have ever seen. We left for Havelock via the coastal road which works its way in and out of the Marlborough Sounds bays and it is spectacular. Although there are some hills to climb it is not heavy cycling and the fact that there is hardly any traffic allowed us to enjoy the amazing views. Havelock is a quiet little town with a lot of history and one of those places most overseas tourists just fly by but wrongfully so. It is well worth a visit and it is set in beautiful surroundings. Travelling as we do on our bicycles we get to see places most tourists do not. At times we would have preferred to advance a bit more but the legs, weather or our little blonde tornado does not allow for it and I think that´s a good thing. We get to see the real people of New Zealand. The fishermen, hunters, nurses, supermarket personnel, builders, carpenters, newspaper deliverers, couriers, postmen, mechanics,...all tell their story and the most beautiful thing is, we have time to listen to what they have to say. We get so many different views from people from all walks of life, New Zealand to us now has so much more meaning and history, Vanessa and I love it.
On the 21st we set off to Nelson, knowing that it was going to be difficult to get there in one day. The weather was beautiful and the roads and traffic were kind to us. Although we were on the highway, cycling here is completely different from cycling on the North Island. There is far less traffic and no aggression from drivers. Nice.
I can´t remember why but we arrived late at our first lunch break and we were wondering if we should leave the two big hills that we knew were in foront of us for tomorrow. Vanessa thought we should at least try to get over the first hill so off we went. It was hot and soon the road started to ascend. The first kilometer was pretty heavy going but we didn´t have time to panic because we got over the hill in no time, easy.
Another 6 kilometers of easy flat cycling until the picnic area of Graham stream where we decided to put up the tent.
The next day we had an early start and a big hill in front of us. Just like the day before, the hill´s gradient at the beginning was pretty steep but after about 2 kilometers it became an easy ascent and we were surprised to see that we started descending without suffering too much. After a long and beautiful descent we got to Hira where we had a bit of lunch in the gasstation/shop. From hereon the way into Nelson was very easy going, The weather was perfect, with the sun lightening up the day and the wind pushing us straight into town. There is a cycle path all the way into Nelson so we didn´t have to go on the highway.
The next two days we spent in Nelson, celebrating Christmas with a big steak. Ella had a massive veggie burger but she was only interested in the fries.
Christmas in Nelson is busy and we enjoyed every second of our stay. The views from the campsite are amazing, the people are lovely, the beaches a delight. At low tide, Ella had a playground so big she couldn´t believe her luck. She ran and swam in the pools, ran after the ducks and couldn´t get enough of playing with all the other kids on the campsite.
On Christmas eve we hitchhiked into town and we ended up having coffee with the couple that gave us the ride in. We inmediately got on like a house on fire and they invited us for brunch the next day. We gladly accepted of course and we met with their son, daughter in law and grandson. After brunch we al went to have a walk along a river near Nelson. A perfect afternoon filled with good conversations and laughs. I tell you, if we would be running the world, things would look quite different. We had some good ideas on how life on earth should be!
26 of december and we are off to St.Arnaud. From Nelson to Richmond we followed the cycle path and from then on it´s very easygoing. We got to Belgrove and somehow we unfortunately fell without juice in the legs and decided to stop. Except for the local tavern, there are no facilities in Belgrove but the owners let us camp in the backgarden. A few beers with the locals and we were as new. We still can´t believe the hospitality of our hosts, we had a great time and had good fun.
27 of december and we woke up from the rain on the tent. This is the South Island, while the weather can be nice this side of the hill, it is pouring with rain on the other side. The rain was falling heavy and we were stuck. Our hosts suggested a solution. They would give us a lift into St.Arnaud but I was too keen on cycling so we decided to get Vanessa and Ella into the car while I was going to cycle to St.Arnaud. I was not going to regret it. Although at times it was raining very hard, it wasn´t cold and the scenery here is just amazing. Nothing but forest for 60 kilometers and the low clouds made this journey so dramatic...a day I´ll never forget. Although the clouds were covering up most of the mountains, we could still appreciate the grandeur of the place. When I arrived, Vanessa had checked in into a backpackers because the campsites were fully booked. By evening fall the sky opened up and before our eyes, from out of the backpacker´s kitchen, nature´s spectacle is beyond words.
We are living a dream and we don´t want to wake up.
We arrived at Picton on the 20th of december late at night and in the rain. No worries though, we had booked a cabin the day before in probably the smallest campsite we have ever seen. We left for Havelock via the coastal road which works its way in and out of the Marlborough Sounds bays and it is spectacular. Although there are some hills to climb it is not heavy cycling and the fact that there is hardly any traffic allowed us to enjoy the amazing views. Havelock is a quiet little town with a lot of history and one of those places most overseas tourists just fly by but wrongfully so. It is well worth a visit and it is set in beautiful surroundings. Travelling as we do on our bicycles we get to see places most tourists do not. At times we would have preferred to advance a bit more but the legs, weather or our little blonde tornado does not allow for it and I think that´s a good thing. We get to see the real people of New Zealand. The fishermen, hunters, nurses, supermarket personnel, builders, carpenters, newspaper deliverers, couriers, postmen, mechanics,...all tell their story and the most beautiful thing is, we have time to listen to what they have to say. We get so many different views from people from all walks of life, New Zealand to us now has so much more meaning and history, Vanessa and I love it.
On the 21st we set off to Nelson, knowing that it was going to be difficult to get there in one day. The weather was beautiful and the roads and traffic were kind to us. Although we were on the highway, cycling here is completely different from cycling on the North Island. There is far less traffic and no aggression from drivers. Nice.
I can´t remember why but we arrived late at our first lunch break and we were wondering if we should leave the two big hills that we knew were in foront of us for tomorrow. Vanessa thought we should at least try to get over the first hill so off we went. It was hot and soon the road started to ascend. The first kilometer was pretty heavy going but we didn´t have time to panic because we got over the hill in no time, easy.
Another 6 kilometers of easy flat cycling until the picnic area of Graham stream where we decided to put up the tent.
The next day we had an early start and a big hill in front of us. Just like the day before, the hill´s gradient at the beginning was pretty steep but after about 2 kilometers it became an easy ascent and we were surprised to see that we started descending without suffering too much. After a long and beautiful descent we got to Hira where we had a bit of lunch in the gasstation/shop. From hereon the way into Nelson was very easy going, The weather was perfect, with the sun lightening up the day and the wind pushing us straight into town. There is a cycle path all the way into Nelson so we didn´t have to go on the highway.
The next two days we spent in Nelson, celebrating Christmas with a big steak. Ella had a massive veggie burger but she was only interested in the fries.
Christmas in Nelson is busy and we enjoyed every second of our stay. The views from the campsite are amazing, the people are lovely, the beaches a delight. At low tide, Ella had a playground so big she couldn´t believe her luck. She ran and swam in the pools, ran after the ducks and couldn´t get enough of playing with all the other kids on the campsite.
On Christmas eve we hitchhiked into town and we ended up having coffee with the couple that gave us the ride in. We inmediately got on like a house on fire and they invited us for brunch the next day. We gladly accepted of course and we met with their son, daughter in law and grandson. After brunch we al went to have a walk along a river near Nelson. A perfect afternoon filled with good conversations and laughs. I tell you, if we would be running the world, things would look quite different. We had some good ideas on how life on earth should be!
26 of december and we are off to St.Arnaud. From Nelson to Richmond we followed the cycle path and from then on it´s very easygoing. We got to Belgrove and somehow we unfortunately fell without juice in the legs and decided to stop. Except for the local tavern, there are no facilities in Belgrove but the owners let us camp in the backgarden. A few beers with the locals and we were as new. We still can´t believe the hospitality of our hosts, we had a great time and had good fun.
27 of december and we woke up from the rain on the tent. This is the South Island, while the weather can be nice this side of the hill, it is pouring with rain on the other side. The rain was falling heavy and we were stuck. Our hosts suggested a solution. They would give us a lift into St.Arnaud but I was too keen on cycling so we decided to get Vanessa and Ella into the car while I was going to cycle to St.Arnaud. I was not going to regret it. Although at times it was raining very hard, it wasn´t cold and the scenery here is just amazing. Nothing but forest for 60 kilometers and the low clouds made this journey so dramatic...a day I´ll never forget. Although the clouds were covering up most of the mountains, we could still appreciate the grandeur of the place. When I arrived, Vanessa had checked in into a backpackers because the campsites were fully booked. By evening fall the sky opened up and before our eyes, from out of the backpacker´s kitchen, nature´s spectacle is beyond words.
We are living a dream and we don´t want to wake up.
Friday, December 25, 2009
Picton to Nelson
Hi everyone,
Sorry we haven't been in touch. We have been cycling for three days to get from Picton to Nelson without any internet access on our way in. We can't yet upload any photos because the internet connection on the campsite is extremely slow. We just wanted to say that cycling in the South Island is like cycling in a different country. The roads are less busy, car and truck drivers respect us and the scenery is absolutely stunning.
We leave Nelson tomorrow and head for St.Arnaud. We will very likely have no access to internet so we would like to wish everyone a merry christmas and a very happy new year.
By the way, again we had some very nice comments on how bad we are at raising our child and that we are a bunch of assholes. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts for those kind and intellectual comments, they keep us going and knowing that we are doing the right thing.
Merry Christmas everyone!!!!
Sorry we haven't been in touch. We have been cycling for three days to get from Picton to Nelson without any internet access on our way in. We can't yet upload any photos because the internet connection on the campsite is extremely slow. We just wanted to say that cycling in the South Island is like cycling in a different country. The roads are less busy, car and truck drivers respect us and the scenery is absolutely stunning.
We leave Nelson tomorrow and head for St.Arnaud. We will very likely have no access to internet so we would like to wish everyone a merry christmas and a very happy new year.
By the way, again we had some very nice comments on how bad we are at raising our child and that we are a bunch of assholes. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts for those kind and intellectual comments, they keep us going and knowing that we are doing the right thing.
Merry Christmas everyone!!!!
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Wellington
Yesterday we arrived at Wellington by train. The last few days we stayed at a backpackers in National Park Village where we sat and watched the rain and snow ruin our chances for a decent walk in the Tongariro Park.
We decided to not cycle the remaining 350 km to Wellington because we feared for Ella's and our safety on the too busy North Island roads. We realise that this changes the outlook of our challenge since we are not exactly cycling the full length of New Zealand. We do apologise sincerely to everyone who has supported us and made donations to Forest and Bird. We hope everyone will understand the reason for our taking public transport on the stretches where traffic is too dense; Ella's safety is more important than anything but we will continue our challenge to reach Bluff.
Sunday we will be taking the ferry to Picton and hopefully in the South Island traffic will be kinder to us.
Regards
We decided to not cycle the remaining 350 km to Wellington because we feared for Ella's and our safety on the too busy North Island roads. We realise that this changes the outlook of our challenge since we are not exactly cycling the full length of New Zealand. We do apologise sincerely to everyone who has supported us and made donations to Forest and Bird. We hope everyone will understand the reason for our taking public transport on the stretches where traffic is too dense; Ella's safety is more important than anything but we will continue our challenge to reach Bluff.
Sunday we will be taking the ferry to Picton and hopefully in the South Island traffic will be kinder to us.
Regards
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Turangi to National Park Village
When we got to the visitor´s centre this morning, we were told that the Intercity bus was not going to take our bicycles on board. The 14.30 and the 15.15 buses were full as well. It seemed like we were going to be stuck in Turangi for a while. Another option was to take a shuttle bus from Turangi to National Park Village to take the train from there to Wellington but the shuttle was quite deer. We decided to do this anyway as we didn´t want to stay in Turangi but when the lady of the visitor centre tried to book the train, surprise, surprise, there were no more seats available for today or tomorrow. We were running out of options and to take the shuttle to National Park Village where the weather apparently was turning really bad did not seem like the smartest idea.
As we were hanging around the visitor centre wandering what we should do, a belgian-english couple walked in and they offered to take us to National Park Village in their van. Just when we thought we were going to be stuck for almost a week, again we were lucky to meet fantastic people! We booked the train tickets to leave on tuesday.
We just about got all gear in their van and on the way to National Park Village we stopped for a short walk along a beautiful lake. Ben, Saskia and their daughter Dixie-Lou decided to stay at the same backpackers in National Park Village and we had a perfect dinner at the only Pizzeria of the village. The rest of this little town exists entirely of backpackers. Quite quaint.
As we were hanging around the visitor centre wandering what we should do, a belgian-english couple walked in and they offered to take us to National Park Village in their van. Just when we thought we were going to be stuck for almost a week, again we were lucky to meet fantastic people! We booked the train tickets to leave on tuesday.
We just about got all gear in their van and on the way to National Park Village we stopped for a short walk along a beautiful lake. Ben, Saskia and their daughter Dixie-Lou decided to stay at the same backpackers in National Park Village and we had a perfect dinner at the only Pizzeria of the village. The rest of this little town exists entirely of backpackers. Quite quaint.
Monday, December 14, 2009
Taupo to Turangi
We got on the bus at around 14.30 and an hour later we arrived at Turangi. We didn´t want to cycle from Taupo to here because there is only the highway to get here and as I explained a few days ago, I am not willing to get on busy highways again. It´s a real shame we couldn´t cycle this because the route is very scenic.
We got off the bus and put the tent on a huge campsite where we had good fun with swiss cyclists who also had enough of trucks and crazy drivers. There was also a group of Israelis who wanted to adopt Ella! Their cooking made everyone else leave the kitchen, they just filled it with black smoke!
At the visitor´s centre we asked for different tracks we could do with Ella but the weather forecast for the coming days was not very promising. Winds of up to 100 km/h, gail and snow. We had to change our plans because we couldn´t possibly cycle or hike in this weather. We decided to book a ticket for the bus straight into Wellington but the bus company Intercity does not guarantee that you can take the bikes and trolleys with you. It defies all logic but that is the company policy and we found ourselves stuck in Turangi. The only chance we got to get on the bus is to go to the busstop and hope for the best. That means we have to get all our gear together, cycle to the busstop and hope the driver lets you on. We´ll see how that goes tomorrow.
We got off the bus and put the tent on a huge campsite where we had good fun with swiss cyclists who also had enough of trucks and crazy drivers. There was also a group of Israelis who wanted to adopt Ella! Their cooking made everyone else leave the kitchen, they just filled it with black smoke!
At the visitor´s centre we asked for different tracks we could do with Ella but the weather forecast for the coming days was not very promising. Winds of up to 100 km/h, gail and snow. We had to change our plans because we couldn´t possibly cycle or hike in this weather. We decided to book a ticket for the bus straight into Wellington but the bus company Intercity does not guarantee that you can take the bikes and trolleys with you. It defies all logic but that is the company policy and we found ourselves stuck in Turangi. The only chance we got to get on the bus is to go to the busstop and hope for the best. That means we have to get all our gear together, cycle to the busstop and hope the driver lets you on. We´ll see how that goes tomorrow.
Taupo
In Taupo we checked in at the Tiki Lodge because it is a backpackers located in the centre of town and we wanted to make it easy for ourselves and Ella. From the Tiki Lodge we had playgrounds and shops at walking distance and a superb view over the lake. We went for a walk to the Huka Falls, a nice walk of about an hour and a half along the river. The Huka Falls are quite spectacular, the amount of water that goes through this narrow passage is very impressive. We were going to walk along the craters of the moon as well but it started to rain and we got a lift back into Taupo.
We spent the rest of the day exploring Taupo town. It´s a small town but nice to walk through and you can see by the amount of pubs that this place will soon be full of summer tourists. Tomorrow we are taking the bus to Turangi from where we intend to cycle again around the volcanos and do some hiking.
We spent the rest of the day exploring Taupo town. It´s a small town but nice to walk through and you can see by the amount of pubs that this place will soon be full of summer tourists. Tomorrow we are taking the bus to Turangi from where we intend to cycle again around the volcanos and do some hiking.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Golden Springs to Taupo
I find it hard to write a negative note on New Zealand because ever since we arrived we have been enjoying kiwi hospitality and everyone we meet has been so kind and helpful. It doesn´t seem very fair to criticize but being on the road today has been the worst experience of my cycling life thus far and I don´t want to go through this again. Vanessa does not share my opinion so this piece is how I feel about cycling in New Zealand.
We started off on the highway today and traffic was absolutely horrible. A lot of trucks and cars all seemed to be in a hurry and they passed me so close that at times I felt their rear view mirror was going to clip me. We decided to get on a back road called Broadlands which goes all the way into Taupo but it was worse. There was no shoulder and traffic couldn´t care less if we were there or not. A lot of the car and truck drivers here don´t even slow down when they come near us. It is an extremely dangerous and nerve-racking situation and I started to get very concerned about Vanessa and Ella´s safety. Maybe it is my inability to block out bad thoughts about what might happen but I had enough. I am not enjoying this and I am getting more and more agressive. I found myself much of the day screaming at drivers that didn´t respect neither distance nor speed. There is absolutely no regard for cyclists in this country and I decided even before getting into Taupo that I was not going to cycle on the highway again. I wouldn´t cycle on the Route Nationale in France either but there at least you have cycle paths, considerate drivers and back roads without heavy trucking traffic. I am not taking Ella on these roads anymore.
I know we are cycling for Forest and Bird and the challenge is to reach Bluff cycling but at this point I can only think of the safety of my child, everything else comes in second place.
I suggested to Vanessa to skip the North and go to the South Island where hopefully the roads are less busy and traffic is kinder to us. We will work our way to Wellington on public transport.
In my opinion, a single cycle path from North to South will not solve the issue for cyclists. What this country needs is a cycle path infrastructure that allows for people to cycle from the suburbs into the town centre without having to share the road with all these maniacs. You need cycle paths all over the country so as to create a cycle culture. Once you have the infrastructure, more and more people will start cycling and a new generation will grow up learning to drive a car with loads of cyclists about. People will become more conscience about sharing the road and life will be a lot less aggressive for everyone. What happens to the Kiwi when they get into their car, I will never understand it. So friendly, patient and understanding when not behind the wheel, and so aggressive, impatient and suicidal when given a car.
We started off on the highway today and traffic was absolutely horrible. A lot of trucks and cars all seemed to be in a hurry and they passed me so close that at times I felt their rear view mirror was going to clip me. We decided to get on a back road called Broadlands which goes all the way into Taupo but it was worse. There was no shoulder and traffic couldn´t care less if we were there or not. A lot of the car and truck drivers here don´t even slow down when they come near us. It is an extremely dangerous and nerve-racking situation and I started to get very concerned about Vanessa and Ella´s safety. Maybe it is my inability to block out bad thoughts about what might happen but I had enough. I am not enjoying this and I am getting more and more agressive. I found myself much of the day screaming at drivers that didn´t respect neither distance nor speed. There is absolutely no regard for cyclists in this country and I decided even before getting into Taupo that I was not going to cycle on the highway again. I wouldn´t cycle on the Route Nationale in France either but there at least you have cycle paths, considerate drivers and back roads without heavy trucking traffic. I am not taking Ella on these roads anymore.
I know we are cycling for Forest and Bird and the challenge is to reach Bluff cycling but at this point I can only think of the safety of my child, everything else comes in second place.
I suggested to Vanessa to skip the North and go to the South Island where hopefully the roads are less busy and traffic is kinder to us. We will work our way to Wellington on public transport.
In my opinion, a single cycle path from North to South will not solve the issue for cyclists. What this country needs is a cycle path infrastructure that allows for people to cycle from the suburbs into the town centre without having to share the road with all these maniacs. You need cycle paths all over the country so as to create a cycle culture. Once you have the infrastructure, more and more people will start cycling and a new generation will grow up learning to drive a car with loads of cyclists about. People will become more conscience about sharing the road and life will be a lot less aggressive for everyone. What happens to the Kiwi when they get into their car, I will never understand it. So friendly, patient and understanding when not behind the wheel, and so aggressive, impatient and suicidal when given a car.
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Waikite Valley to Golden Springs
No sooner had we left the campsite and the road started to climb; a hill so steep so early in the day was a real shocker. This was definitely the toughest hill we had faced so far.
Vanessa soon had to get off her bike and I tried for a while longer but it was just impossible. I pushed my bike up the hill where the slope got a little gentler and went back down to help Vanessa push the bike up the hill. It took us 30 minutes and a lot of energy bars to do 3 km. Once we conquered this giant we were rewarded with a long gradual descent with spectacular views everywhere we looked. The descent continues until we got to the highway but we took a backroad towards Waiotapu, a site known for its spectacularly colored lakes. We decided to pay the 30 dollar entrée fee and have a walk through the strangest landscape nature has to offer.
The fun was over when we had to get back on the highway, again those horrible trucks and inconsiderate drivers that fly by at tremendous speed. Frankly, I am getting pretty sick of these roads. Luckily enough we could get off the highway and get on a back road towards Reporoa, where according to the map there should be a campsite. Once again, the map was wrong and we had to get back on the highway towards Golden Springs.
At the risk of being very repetitive about this issue, I need to express my utmost disgust for the New Zealand highways. Who in his right mind would want to cycle here for pleasure?? Instead of enjoying the landscape, you are constantly worried about the traffic that is approaching from behind at devilish speed. Every time I here a truck, I brace myself and hope there isn´t a car right behind it that can´t see us. It´s madness.
The campsite at Golden Springs is a bit rundown but we found a great spot for our tent. It is very hot today. The pollen from a Poppler has turned the grass into a white carpet and we have good fun causing the white pollen to fly up in the air. It is Christmas after all!!
Less funny is the pollen in the tent, it´s everywhere!
Here also there is a hot stream at 40 degrees and we just sat down in the stream to have a hot bath. The Golden Springs supermarket is covered with spiderwebs so no chance of buying dinner here. The campsite owners sell us eggs and bread and with some broccoli, two potatoes and rice we made ourselves a very fine dinner indeed!
Vanessa soon had to get off her bike and I tried for a while longer but it was just impossible. I pushed my bike up the hill where the slope got a little gentler and went back down to help Vanessa push the bike up the hill. It took us 30 minutes and a lot of energy bars to do 3 km. Once we conquered this giant we were rewarded with a long gradual descent with spectacular views everywhere we looked. The descent continues until we got to the highway but we took a backroad towards Waiotapu, a site known for its spectacularly colored lakes. We decided to pay the 30 dollar entrée fee and have a walk through the strangest landscape nature has to offer.
The fun was over when we had to get back on the highway, again those horrible trucks and inconsiderate drivers that fly by at tremendous speed. Frankly, I am getting pretty sick of these roads. Luckily enough we could get off the highway and get on a back road towards Reporoa, where according to the map there should be a campsite. Once again, the map was wrong and we had to get back on the highway towards Golden Springs.
At the risk of being very repetitive about this issue, I need to express my utmost disgust for the New Zealand highways. Who in his right mind would want to cycle here for pleasure?? Instead of enjoying the landscape, you are constantly worried about the traffic that is approaching from behind at devilish speed. Every time I here a truck, I brace myself and hope there isn´t a car right behind it that can´t see us. It´s madness.
The campsite at Golden Springs is a bit rundown but we found a great spot for our tent. It is very hot today. The pollen from a Poppler has turned the grass into a white carpet and we have good fun causing the white pollen to fly up in the air. It is Christmas after all!!
Less funny is the pollen in the tent, it´s everywhere!
Here also there is a hot stream at 40 degrees and we just sat down in the stream to have a hot bath. The Golden Springs supermarket is covered with spiderwebs so no chance of buying dinner here. The campsite owners sell us eggs and bread and with some broccoli, two potatoes and rice we made ourselves a very fine dinner indeed!
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Rotorua to Waikite Valley
It was hard to leave Rotorua this morning. We ended up staying five days, partly because of the bad weather and bicycle breakdown we had but more so because there is so much to do and see in this very cosy town. We have seen mudpools, geisers, hot water springs, Maori dancing and chanting, Paradise Valley, Redwoods mountainbiking heaven, the government gardens and the museum, Okere Falls.
Add to all this the incomparable Rotorua hospitality of our Forest and Bird friends and the amazing experience of speaking to the children about our trip, and you can see how we had the best time ever. Ella also enjoyed our stay at Rotorua. She got to be the star at both our presentations, she had the perfect friend in Jorg at the home of our hosts and Rotorua must have more playground than the whole of Spain. Even at the Maori dance and chant spectacle she had the time of her life. When the men performed the Haka she wasn´t scared at all and started sticking out her tongue as well.
We left Paradise Valley in beautiful sunshine. We followed the highway for about 15 km and then took backroads towards Waikite Valley. Narrow and winding roads through green hills, Vanessa was flying and I couldn´t keep up. A gradual climb until I caught up with her when she was already preparing lunch under a big pine tree in the garden of a farm. It was hot. A dog approached to see if he could steal some of our lunch but Ella wasn´t having none of it. According to the map, a campsite had to be quite near but when we got to a junction where the campsite was supposed to be, we found nothing. We continued for another 5 km and there it was, Waikite Valley Campsite. The sun was now burning relentlessly and we were happy to put up the tent, some 5 metres of a 97 degrees hot stream! The facilities on this little quaint campsite are amazing. There are at least 8 hot pools that very in temperature from 42 to 27 degrees. The steaming hot water from the steam is diverted into an artificially created cascade which serves to cool the water down. Before the water enters the pools, it if first thrown into the air to cool it down even more and then it flows into the first and hottest pool. It is an extraordinary place to be and a piece of paradise off the beaten track. Ella couldn´t get enough of the pools.
Add to all this the incomparable Rotorua hospitality of our Forest and Bird friends and the amazing experience of speaking to the children about our trip, and you can see how we had the best time ever. Ella also enjoyed our stay at Rotorua. She got to be the star at both our presentations, she had the perfect friend in Jorg at the home of our hosts and Rotorua must have more playground than the whole of Spain. Even at the Maori dance and chant spectacle she had the time of her life. When the men performed the Haka she wasn´t scared at all and started sticking out her tongue as well.
We left Paradise Valley in beautiful sunshine. We followed the highway for about 15 km and then took backroads towards Waikite Valley. Narrow and winding roads through green hills, Vanessa was flying and I couldn´t keep up. A gradual climb until I caught up with her when she was already preparing lunch under a big pine tree in the garden of a farm. It was hot. A dog approached to see if he could steal some of our lunch but Ella wasn´t having none of it. According to the map, a campsite had to be quite near but when we got to a junction where the campsite was supposed to be, we found nothing. We continued for another 5 km and there it was, Waikite Valley Campsite. The sun was now burning relentlessly and we were happy to put up the tent, some 5 metres of a 97 degrees hot stream! The facilities on this little quaint campsite are amazing. There are at least 8 hot pools that very in temperature from 42 to 27 degrees. The steaming hot water from the steam is diverted into an artificially created cascade which serves to cool the water down. Before the water enters the pools, it if first thrown into the air to cool it down even more and then it flows into the first and hottest pool. It is an extraordinary place to be and a piece of paradise off the beaten track. Ella couldn´t get enough of the pools.
Monday, December 7, 2009
Rotorua day 5
I went to the Redwoods Park this morning to try out the world famous mountainbike tracks that have been carefully made in this area. Some people call this the Disneyland for mountainbikers and once you have tried a few tracks, it is easy to see why it is called that way.
There are numerous tracks that are divided by level of difficulty. They go from very easy to very difficult and although there aren´t any prelonged uphills, it is still quite a demanding exercise and after 3 hours I was beat. I started with intermediate level tracks and worked my way gradually towards more difficult tracks but I had to get off the bike on more than one occasion. Some of the sections are for suicidal maniacs and I was not going to break my back here. One of the more difficult tracks is called the "Rockdrop". I went to have a look and could not see how someone could jump off this rock, absolute madness but there are tracks for beginners so anyone can enjoy this. A great initiative and I loved cycling here, so much even that I wrecked my shoes and I had to buy a new pair.
I was just in time to go to Jorg´s school where we were also invited to talk to the children about our trip. Once again it was a great experience and the amount of questions that these children ask, it is so rewarding. I hope we have been able to get the message across to some of the kids that cycling is really cool, it keeps you fit and it´s great fun. We had our last dinner together with our hosts and although it is very tempting to stay, we really need to get going.
There are numerous tracks that are divided by level of difficulty. They go from very easy to very difficult and although there aren´t any prelonged uphills, it is still quite a demanding exercise and after 3 hours I was beat. I started with intermediate level tracks and worked my way gradually towards more difficult tracks but I had to get off the bike on more than one occasion. Some of the sections are for suicidal maniacs and I was not going to break my back here. One of the more difficult tracks is called the "Rockdrop". I went to have a look and could not see how someone could jump off this rock, absolute madness but there are tracks for beginners so anyone can enjoy this. A great initiative and I loved cycling here, so much even that I wrecked my shoes and I had to buy a new pair.
I was just in time to go to Jorg´s school where we were also invited to talk to the children about our trip. Once again it was a great experience and the amount of questions that these children ask, it is so rewarding. I hope we have been able to get the message across to some of the kids that cycling is really cool, it keeps you fit and it´s great fun. We had our last dinner together with our hosts and although it is very tempting to stay, we really need to get going.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Rotorua day 4
Today we went to Te Puia, a sort of open air museum that features hot water pools, mudpools and geisers but more importantly, it is a place where Maori culture is very present. Visiting this site is a good way to learn about how New Zealand must have been before the first settlers arrived and you get to see a Maori village, a marae, a carving workshop and the museum introduces you to Maori history. Because the Maori did not have a written language, their sculptures and carvings are very important to understand the culture.
On the same site there are plenty of mud pools, hot water springs and a geiser that we saw erupt. It is quite eerie to be walking in an area full of holes in the earth where al this bubbly stuff and steam comes squirting out. It is hard to believe that nature can produce these bright chemical colors on the rocks and soil. The different colors come from sulphur, alkaline and other minerals and chemical components that are pushed up by underground activity.
We took the bus back into town and strolled through the Government Gardens and visited the museum, housed in a beautiful colonial building, certainly worth the visit.
After a long and full day we have the perfect finale, another great dinner with our hosts.
On the same site there are plenty of mud pools, hot water springs and a geiser that we saw erupt. It is quite eerie to be walking in an area full of holes in the earth where al this bubbly stuff and steam comes squirting out. It is hard to believe that nature can produce these bright chemical colors on the rocks and soil. The different colors come from sulphur, alkaline and other minerals and chemical components that are pushed up by underground activity.
We took the bus back into town and strolled through the Government Gardens and visited the museum, housed in a beautiful colonial building, certainly worth the visit.
After a long and full day we have the perfect finale, another great dinner with our hosts.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Rotorua day 3
Day number 3 in Rotorua and we got in touch with a Southafrican couple, members of Forest and Bird who offered us a place to stay. There were plenty of people who had offered a place to stay but because of the hellish ride in and the bad luck with my rear tire, we checked in in the first campsite we found. The second day, because of the rain we decided to stay at the campsite again but today we could not refuse the offer and moved up to a place called Paradise Valley.
Our hosts, Pier and Volna made us feel welcome from the first moment, Pier even arranged for a trolley so he could take us all the way to their place. By that time my bicycle was ready and once we were installed in their beautiful home, Volna took us to Okere Falls, just outside Rotorua. We were going to join the protest that was organised to avoid the damming of the Kaituna river. On the projects-page we will list more information on this issue.
We had a lovely dinner with Pier, Volna and their son Jorg.
Our hosts, Pier and Volna made us feel welcome from the first moment, Pier even arranged for a trolley so he could take us all the way to their place. By that time my bicycle was ready and once we were installed in their beautiful home, Volna took us to Okere Falls, just outside Rotorua. We were going to join the protest that was organised to avoid the damming of the Kaituna river. On the projects-page we will list more information on this issue.
We had a lovely dinner with Pier, Volna and their son Jorg.
Friday, December 4, 2009
Rotorua day 2
The rain was still coming down us and we decided not to make a move. My bicycle is in pretty bad shape so we went into town and left it at the bike shop. It should be ready by tomorrow. At 12.30, we were picked up by the principal of a local school called Kaharoa where we were going to have a talk to the children about our trip. The school is what in New Zealand is called an environmental school, which means that activities are included for children to carry out and learn about nature and conservation. One of the projects is the constuction of a building dedicated to the Kokako-bird and also the implementation of a pest controlled area. A conservation school and the work they do is extremely valuable as they teach children from a very early age to understand that our planet is vulnerable and needs to be treated with care.
The chat with the children was absolutely brilliant. We told about who we are, what we are doing and why, and they loved it. They were especially interested in how long we still had to go and if Ella was enjoying it. All the children loved Ella and she was really stealing the show. A great experience. We spent the rest of the day strolling through Rotorua, window shopping and laying about.
The chat with the children was absolutely brilliant. We told about who we are, what we are doing and why, and they loved it. They were especially interested in how long we still had to go and if Ella was enjoying it. All the children loved Ella and she was really stealing the show. A great experience. We spent the rest of the day strolling through Rotorua, window shopping and laying about.
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Okoroire to Rotorua
The weather this morning did not look too bad and we got off to a good start. The beautiful road out from Okoroire onto the highway passes a golf course and rolling green countryside. Once we got on the highway, everything changed. These type of wider roads are made for cars and trucks to go fast. The sides of the road are cleared of obstacles and plant growth so as to improve visibility and avoid things falling on the tarmac. Fair enough if you are driving a car but not very attractive if you are cycling. The smaller roads allow you to be in touch with nature, you are surrounded by it, while these highways are built for speed.
Again, Vanessa seems to not mind too much but I hate cycling on these roads. I don´t understand why anyone in his right mind would enjoy riding a road where cars and trucks pass you at 100 km/h. It makes me nervous.
The highway 5 into Rotorua is a long, gradual climb and once you get to the top, it sort of keeps rolling up and down until the real descent begins. We were still on the rolling section when it started to rain heavily. We looked for shelter and found it in a nearby farm. It seemed abandoned but there was folk that did not mind us hiding in from the rain for a while but did not seem keen on socialising any more either. Fair enough. By the time we got to Rotorua we were exhausted, wet and again nervous and annoyed with the too many drivers that pass too close. I for one have had enough of highways. I am not enjoying this.
We quickly find a campsite and get a cabin. The rain is falling down heavily and we prefer a little luxury. The cabin has a double bed, a kitchen and a TV!
Rotorua is quite a strange place. Everywhere you go there is proof of volcanic and thermal activity. On the campsite itself, just 10 metres away from our cabin, there is a hole in the soil and you can see the mud bubbling and the steam rising out of it. I don´t really know what to make of this. Is it ok to breathe in this steam? How hot would it be? Where does it come from and how do they occur? Maybe the ground underneath us might give away any minute now and we´ll barbecued in two seconds. Instead of running away, we do as all Kiwis do, we relax and say "good as gold".
Again, Vanessa seems to not mind too much but I hate cycling on these roads. I don´t understand why anyone in his right mind would enjoy riding a road where cars and trucks pass you at 100 km/h. It makes me nervous.
The highway 5 into Rotorua is a long, gradual climb and once you get to the top, it sort of keeps rolling up and down until the real descent begins. We were still on the rolling section when it started to rain heavily. We looked for shelter and found it in a nearby farm. It seemed abandoned but there was folk that did not mind us hiding in from the rain for a while but did not seem keen on socialising any more either. Fair enough. By the time we got to Rotorua we were exhausted, wet and again nervous and annoyed with the too many drivers that pass too close. I for one have had enough of highways. I am not enjoying this.
We quickly find a campsite and get a cabin. The rain is falling down heavily and we prefer a little luxury. The cabin has a double bed, a kitchen and a TV!
Rotorua is quite a strange place. Everywhere you go there is proof of volcanic and thermal activity. On the campsite itself, just 10 metres away from our cabin, there is a hole in the soil and you can see the mud bubbling and the steam rising out of it. I don´t really know what to make of this. Is it ok to breathe in this steam? How hot would it be? Where does it come from and how do they occur? Maybe the ground underneath us might give away any minute now and we´ll barbecued in two seconds. Instead of running away, we do as all Kiwis do, we relax and say "good as gold".
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Okaiura to Okoirore
A cyclist´s nightmare usually has the reocurring elements such as wind, rain, narrow and busy roads, big trucks,...
Our nightmare today was pretty complete with big trucks blowing us, literally, off the road and rainfall that got us looking like a chicken that fell into the sea...absolutely soaking.
At first it did not seem that bad but soon the drizzle became proper rain. By the time we passed Matamata the sky looked so menacing that we had lost all hope of staying dry today. Our main goal now was to get to Okoroire as fast as we could. Luckily the countryside in these regions are dead flat so we made good progress but we had to get on the highway for about 15 km and that was horrible. Twice I got blown off the road by logging trucks and it is scary. Some truck drivers do not understand that when they pass us at 100 km/h and so close to us, the mere replacement of air caused by the sheer volume of these huge monsters pushes us off the road.
We took the backroads again as soon as we could but by now the rain had started to fall very heavily and we could hardly see. We seemed to be lost as well so we asked a passing farmer if he knew of a campsite. It was right in front of us and we did not see it. There was a hotel as well so we decided to get a room so we could dry our stuff. There was one of those little air-blowing heaters that smell of burned hair after a while but it got our clothes dry.
The hotel could well be the set for Fawlty Towers, a retro style that must have been grand in the seventies and the owner-farmer-hunter sure was a character of a million stories. Vanessa and I ate two massive hamburgers and drank a few beers to forget today´s weather and traffic perils. Ella loved the hotel. She just could not stop running through the bar, the foyer, the restaurant, and there was all this new stuff she could not keep her eyes off. The bar with all the bottles, the billiard table, the deer and wild boar heads on the wall, the paintings of landscapes,...
Vanessa is not too worried about the roads but I am. I am having serious difficulties to get on the road without thinking about traffic and how unsafe it is. Tomorrow we are having to do 40 km of highway and I am not looking forward to it.
Our nightmare today was pretty complete with big trucks blowing us, literally, off the road and rainfall that got us looking like a chicken that fell into the sea...absolutely soaking.
At first it did not seem that bad but soon the drizzle became proper rain. By the time we passed Matamata the sky looked so menacing that we had lost all hope of staying dry today. Our main goal now was to get to Okoroire as fast as we could. Luckily the countryside in these regions are dead flat so we made good progress but we had to get on the highway for about 15 km and that was horrible. Twice I got blown off the road by logging trucks and it is scary. Some truck drivers do not understand that when they pass us at 100 km/h and so close to us, the mere replacement of air caused by the sheer volume of these huge monsters pushes us off the road.
We took the backroads again as soon as we could but by now the rain had started to fall very heavily and we could hardly see. We seemed to be lost as well so we asked a passing farmer if he knew of a campsite. It was right in front of us and we did not see it. There was a hotel as well so we decided to get a room so we could dry our stuff. There was one of those little air-blowing heaters that smell of burned hair after a while but it got our clothes dry.
The hotel could well be the set for Fawlty Towers, a retro style that must have been grand in the seventies and the owner-farmer-hunter sure was a character of a million stories. Vanessa and I ate two massive hamburgers and drank a few beers to forget today´s weather and traffic perils. Ella loved the hotel. She just could not stop running through the bar, the foyer, the restaurant, and there was all this new stuff she could not keep her eyes off. The bar with all the bottles, the billiard table, the deer and wild boar heads on the wall, the paintings of landscapes,...
Vanessa is not too worried about the roads but I am. I am having serious difficulties to get on the road without thinking about traffic and how unsafe it is. Tomorrow we are having to do 40 km of highway and I am not looking forward to it.
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Te Aroha to Okaiua
Our day off yesterday was spent looking outside the window of our cabin we rented for the night. It rained all day and we felt like zombies wandering through a deserted campsite. Luckily, Ella provides for plenty of fun.
Today we were going to get closer to Rotorua, even if that moment getting wet, and it looked like bad weather again so we left with a very heavy soul. There were clouds everywhere and you could see rain thrashing down in the west over the plains and in the east on the mountains. It did not look too good...
We agreed we were going to cycle only in the morning in order to avoid the risk of getting soaked so our next destination was Okaiua, not a village but a campsite near hot springs.
We initially were going to take the "Gordon road" but it was right at the foot of the mountain and we could see how the rain was coming down there heavily. We decided on another road, parallel to this one and that decision kept us dry. Rain everywhere except where we cycled, can you believe it?
We could have cycled more because we arrived very early at the campsite but we were not going to challenge the weather for much longer. We checked in, had a visit from Luke, Nina and Ellis and for the rest of the day, we watched the rain fall down very, very heavily. A good thing we called it a day.
Today we were going to get closer to Rotorua, even if that moment getting wet, and it looked like bad weather again so we left with a very heavy soul. There were clouds everywhere and you could see rain thrashing down in the west over the plains and in the east on the mountains. It did not look too good...
We agreed we were going to cycle only in the morning in order to avoid the risk of getting soaked so our next destination was Okaiua, not a village but a campsite near hot springs.
We initially were going to take the "Gordon road" but it was right at the foot of the mountain and we could see how the rain was coming down there heavily. We decided on another road, parallel to this one and that decision kept us dry. Rain everywhere except where we cycled, can you believe it?
We could have cycled more because we arrived very early at the campsite but we were not going to challenge the weather for much longer. We checked in, had a visit from Luke, Nina and Ellis and for the rest of the day, we watched the rain fall down very, very heavily. A good thing we called it a day.
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