This morning at 10.00 we took the "Earnslaw", a steamboat that took us from Queenstown to Walter Peak Station. 45 minutes later and after a beautiful and smooth journey across the lake we arrived at Walter Peak, a beautiful sheep farm in colonial style and gardens. From here a 90 km long gravel road connects with the highway that goes to Te Anau. We knew we could not make it in one day so we aimed to get to the campsite at the Mavora Lakes, which was still a big ask as most of the 55km were going to be uphill. Our journey via this gravel road proved to be the most challenging adventure we had ever done by bicycle. Before we ventured out on this road we asked advice to numerous people: local cyclists who had cycled it, bikeshop owners and cycle tourists and they all said that the track, although it was gravel, was in good condition and we would be fine, even with the buggy and trolley. Not so!
At the start of the track we had to deal with very rocky terrain that shook the buggy and Ella would not have it. We walked for about one kilometer to see if it would get any better but no such luck and Ella refused to continue in the buggy which was now covered in dust.
We had an idea. We took out the carrier bag, a type of backpack in which Ella is very happy to sit in and we got her in there. She smiled in approval and we continued, Vanessa with a backpack that normally sits on my bicycle, and I put Ella on my back. Every cyclist in the world knows that a backpack is the worst possible means of carrying your stuff when cycling but we did not have much choice. We slowly got on our way, climbing the gravel road alongside spectacular scenery, with Mount Aspiring at the horizon.
All of a sudden, a yellow plane appeared from nowhere and flew right across, one of the few signs of human presence we were going to witness until getting to the main road again. After some 20 km we had to wade through a river and we entered deeper and deeper into a very impressive valley. Not a soul in sight, only cows and even bulls roaming free. Ella was starting to get heavy on my shoulder but most of all my behind. Her weight pushed me hard onto the saddle and it felt as if I had been sitting on a lit candle. We stopped just before a climb of 4 km to have lunch. A Toyota Landcruiser passed us, wishing us good luck. I was wishing for leather buttocks.
The hill, or as they call it here in New Zealand, the saddle, was tremendously tough and we did most of it walking. We were exhausted when we got to the top. The views are incredibly: we are surrounded by mountains,the only sound is the wind blowing across the wide valley and there is no sign of civilization as far as the eye can see...and the horizon seems very far away!
We were so releaved to have finished climbing that saddle that we had high hopes we could do the remaining 30 km and reach the campground in 3 hours. This proved to be a grave miscalculation. We thought the road would now gradually descent to the lakes but once again, we did too much thinking. The ups and downs on this difficult gravel road and a head wind made it very hard to keep going. We frequently had to stop to rest and drink. This might be an easy gravel road when you are on a single mountain bike but with a trolley and buggy it is extremely hard work. The track also has plenty of cattle grids that rocked our very foundations. I am surprised we still got all our teeth. We can´t remember exactly but it might have been with 15 km left when I cracked, I hit rock bottom and could not see how I could continue carrying Ella. I had reached my physical limit. We stopped at a river and after a few minutes of senseless screaming on my behalf, we found energy to do the last 15 km. I cannot explain how I felt, let alone how Vanessa felt but I remember not being able to stop thinking "I do not want to be here".
The conditions of the track got worse as the gravel got thicker. The 4-wheel tracks were no good to us as our trolleys did not fit so their wheels kept slipping away in the thick gravel. We started this morning at 11.00, we still had 10 km to go and it was already 19.00. At 5km per hour and regular stops, time was against us and we were getting desperate and worried.
As I was getting more and more exhausted, I remember having visions. At one point, I thought I saw a fence in the distance but when we got closer, there was nothing there. I also so a car parked, and a man reading a book but both events turned out to be images ocurring in my head and it´s quite eerie.
Vanessa and I agreed we would not stop anymore until reaching the campground.
It took us another 2 hours to complete the remaining 10 km, with another river crossing and the very unpleasant surprise that the campground was another 5 km from the main track. We had to take a side track that continued along the lake and it seemed forever before we got to an open space with a table and toilet. That was it. That was the campsite. Those last 5 km we walked, taking turns to carry Ella. The person who was not carrying Ella cycled ahead to see how far we still had to go. It was hell. It took us 10 hours to cycle 55 km and to get to this "campsite". We lit a fire and had a massive plate of ravioli with pesto. During this whole adventure, Ella remained so strong and behaved so well, she really is an extraordinary little lady. I also had to come to the conclusion that I am the weakest of the three, screaming and shouting like a spoilt little boy when things get rough. I knew Vanessa was strong but today she blew me sideways. While I was complaining, she just kept going.
Our reward was right in front of us: pure wilderness. Nothing but forest and mountains, a beautiful green coloured lake, trout continuously jumping out of the water hunting flies, birds everywhere and a beautiful clear sky. At night the sounds of the animals kept me awake but I loved it. You could here all sorts of animals, I guess mainly birds, right next to the tent looking for food or whatever it is they think they can get out of a tent. Most birds in New Zealand are extremely curious anyway and they will come right up to you. In the morning we had a couple of robins sitting in our tent. When we had breakfast, one was sitting on my shoe! A tomtit joined the fun and sat on my cup of tea. A little wren started investigating our bycicles and I think I even saw a whitehead (do they exist?). Ella loved it and especially enjoyed the robins who just would not leave.
We had to leave though as we had another 30 km via difficult gravel road ahead of us.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Queenstown to ....
Good morning,
Yesterday we got to Queenstown after a very easy 20 km from Arrowtown. We spent the day strolling through Queenstown and although it is very touristy, it is a very pleasant town and we enjoyed ourselves. Today we are leaving for Te Anau. We are taking the steamboat to Walter Peak Station to then follow the back road via Mavora Lakes into Te Anau. It will take us 2 days to get there so we'll report back in the weekend.
Images of the South Island
Yesterday we got to Queenstown after a very easy 20 km from Arrowtown. We spent the day strolling through Queenstown and although it is very touristy, it is a very pleasant town and we enjoyed ourselves. Today we are leaving for Te Anau. We are taking the steamboat to Walter Peak Station to then follow the back road via Mavora Lakes into Te Anau. It will take us 2 days to get there so we'll report back in the weekend.
Images of the South Island
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Wanaka to Arrowtown
We spent monday unexpectedly in Wanaka as I woke up feeling very ill. I spent the whole of monday in bed but today I felt I could follow Vanessa up the Crown Range all the way into Arrowtown. We left Wanaka at around 10.00 in beautiful weather. The first 25 km to Cardrona are not too bad, although it is all uphill. We had a coffee and a dutch apple pie and gave Ella some time to run in the restaurant´s garden before we set off for the second and last ascent.
The road started climbing steeper and steeper but it is still pretty feasible to keep going. The scenery is spectacular and if the firat part of the ascent reminded us of Spain, after Cardrona we felt as if we were in Patagonia. The heat was getting to us and the last 4 km are very hard. We had to get off our bikes when there was about 1 km left. Pushing the bikes up the steep hill in this heat was hard work but once again we made it and the views over the mountains, valley and Queenstown are stunning.
We were told the descent was a bit dangerous so I let Vanessa have a head-start. She does not tend to take unnecessary risks but I rather stayed behind just in case. The first part of the descent is awesome: very steep and open bends where I hardly needed to brake. I could feel the trolley going from side to side though so I had to slow down...I was going at almost 80km/h...not a good idea when you are towing a trolley of 50 kg.
The second part of the descent is much more dangerous with a lot of 180 degree bends, Tour de France-style. I underestimated the weight of the trolley and when I was almost at the bottom of the descent all of a sudden I felt the trolley coming next to me and it took me off the road. I slammed on the tarmac, my thigh hit the handle bars and the trolley slammed into my knee after doing a 360. My handle bar came off, my brake-handle is completely bent, the leather cover of the saddle has come off and the trolley is completely scratched on one side. I got up, checked my injuries but I was fine, no bones broken today. I should have slowed down in those 180 bends.
Anyway, we got to Arrowtown where we took a long hot shower and went to bed early after a very exciting day and 38 km of uphill!
The road started climbing steeper and steeper but it is still pretty feasible to keep going. The scenery is spectacular and if the firat part of the ascent reminded us of Spain, after Cardrona we felt as if we were in Patagonia. The heat was getting to us and the last 4 km are very hard. We had to get off our bikes when there was about 1 km left. Pushing the bikes up the steep hill in this heat was hard work but once again we made it and the views over the mountains, valley and Queenstown are stunning.
We were told the descent was a bit dangerous so I let Vanessa have a head-start. She does not tend to take unnecessary risks but I rather stayed behind just in case. The first part of the descent is awesome: very steep and open bends where I hardly needed to brake. I could feel the trolley going from side to side though so I had to slow down...I was going at almost 80km/h...not a good idea when you are towing a trolley of 50 kg.
The second part of the descent is much more dangerous with a lot of 180 degree bends, Tour de France-style. I underestimated the weight of the trolley and when I was almost at the bottom of the descent all of a sudden I felt the trolley coming next to me and it took me off the road. I slammed on the tarmac, my thigh hit the handle bars and the trolley slammed into my knee after doing a 360. My handle bar came off, my brake-handle is completely bent, the leather cover of the saddle has come off and the trolley is completely scratched on one side. I got up, checked my injuries but I was fine, no bones broken today. I should have slowed down in those 180 bends.
Anyway, we got to Arrowtown where we took a long hot shower and went to bed early after a very exciting day and 38 km of uphill!
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Relaxing in beautiful Wanaka
We are spending the weekend in Wanaka, relaxing and wandering around like proper tourists and we are loving every second of it.
Wanaka is a great little place, beautifully set at the lake and surrounding mountains. The atmosphere is very relaxed but never boring. There is a lot going on at any time of the day. People are skateboarding at the local skatepark, jogging, cycling, sailing, waterskiing, strolling along the lake, sunbathing, horseriding,...
We have been here for only two days but in that time we witnessed a skateboarding tournament, a mountainbike competition, an outdoor cinema in the middle of the park, a sailing competition, a crafts market, ad all events at walking distance from our motel. It´s such a lively place without that touristy feel, we couldn´t think of a better place to take it easy for a while. Our bicycles needed a good clean-up anyway and our visit to the bike shop turned out to be very important. The brakes on Vanessa´s bike were completely worn out and in urgent need of replacement. The mechanics also managed to get rid of a horrible squeeky noise her bike was making for the last three weeks, which was due to a bad adjusted rear axle. The bottom bracket on my bicycle was slowly being grinded out by the weight of the buggy and needed to be replaced. Three months on the road and the trolleys are a big ask for our bikes and in the end something had to give. With all renewed gear, heads and legs we are ready to leave tomorrow to face the Crowne range, a climb of 40 km but before that we will be enjoying a lazy sunday and the constantly changing settings of Wanaka!
Wanaka is a great little place, beautifully set at the lake and surrounding mountains. The atmosphere is very relaxed but never boring. There is a lot going on at any time of the day. People are skateboarding at the local skatepark, jogging, cycling, sailing, waterskiing, strolling along the lake, sunbathing, horseriding,...
We have been here for only two days but in that time we witnessed a skateboarding tournament, a mountainbike competition, an outdoor cinema in the middle of the park, a sailing competition, a crafts market, ad all events at walking distance from our motel. It´s such a lively place without that touristy feel, we couldn´t think of a better place to take it easy for a while. Our bicycles needed a good clean-up anyway and our visit to the bike shop turned out to be very important. The brakes on Vanessa´s bike were completely worn out and in urgent need of replacement. The mechanics also managed to get rid of a horrible squeeky noise her bike was making for the last three weeks, which was due to a bad adjusted rear axle. The bottom bracket on my bicycle was slowly being grinded out by the weight of the buggy and needed to be replaced. Three months on the road and the trolleys are a big ask for our bikes and in the end something had to give. With all renewed gear, heads and legs we are ready to leave tomorrow to face the Crowne range, a climb of 40 km but before that we will be enjoying a lazy sunday and the constantly changing settings of Wanaka!
Friday, January 22, 2010
Lake Hawea to Wanaka
Last night Ella got very ill, with a fever rising to 40.2 degrees. We stayed up all night to check her temperature every hour and 3 times we had to put her in a cold bath to lower the fever. By 0500 am we got her body temperature down to 38.2 and we could see she was feeling better. Yesterday evening we called a doctor to make sure Ella´s symptoms were not related to any awkward condition and he confirmed we should just keep an eye on her and keep her temperature down, which we achieved.
We decided to get to Wanaka as fast as we could and left Hawea at 10.30, with Ella weak but without fever. It was only 15 km and once we got to Wanaka we checked into a motel with beautiful views over Lake Wanaka. With Ella still recovering and the fact that we had not stopped for more than two days for a long time, we decided we were entitled to a bit of luxury. For a hundred dollars per night, we got a room with bath (spa!), TV, fridge and a terrace looking out over the lake and the surrounding mountains. It was time to relax!
We decided to get to Wanaka as fast as we could and left Hawea at 10.30, with Ella weak but without fever. It was only 15 km and once we got to Wanaka we checked into a motel with beautiful views over Lake Wanaka. With Ella still recovering and the fact that we had not stopped for more than two days for a long time, we decided we were entitled to a bit of luxury. For a hundred dollars per night, we got a room with bath (spa!), TV, fridge and a terrace looking out over the lake and the surrounding mountains. It was time to relax!
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Makarora to Lake Hawea
It looked pretty dismal this morning with the rain falling down heavily but by the time we were ready to go, the sky cleared up. The first 17 km were easy, with a strong tailwind helping us along the beautiful lake Wanaka. A fairly long climb called “the Neck”, took us to lake Hawea. The scenery has now changed completely. The rainforest and alpine mountains are behind us and we have entered a different New Zealand, which at times looks like Scotland. We stopped for lunch and noticed that Ella was not her normal self. She had a fever. We hurried back on the road to get to Hawea as soon as possible but the last 20 km were a lot tougher than we expected. There are several very steep hills along the lake and it hurt big time to get across. When we had only 9 km left to our end destination, Ella started to complain and we could not leave her in the buggy. We hitchhiked for a while and a Californian couple took Vanessa and Ella to town. We left Vanessa´s bike by the side of the road while I cycled my way into Hawea.
The Californian couple then took me back to Vanessa´s bike which I rode to town. By the time I got to the motel, Vanessa had booked a very nice room with spectacular views over the lake. Ella got worse and spiked a 38.7 fever.
The Californian couple then took me back to Vanessa´s bike which I rode to town. By the time I got to the motel, Vanessa had booked a very nice room with spectacular views over the lake. Ella got worse and spiked a 38.7 fever.
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Pleasant Flat to Makarora
After our sandfly ordeal we packed as fast as we could...or did you think those bastards would take the day off? Noooo....they were eagerly waiting for more blood. We got started at 10.15 this morning, fearing the worst. The first 5 km were easy cycling in fine drizzle. After that, the road started climbing a bit steeper until we got to the Gates of Haast Pass Bridge. It is absolutely fabulous to cycle over the bridge and it is seriously impressive among these mountains, still covered in snow. As soon as we got over the bridge, the road becomes so steep...we tried for about 500 metres but we had to stop. Campervans struggled to get up the hill and we walked our bikes up. I tried to cycle now and then, doing 100 metres to then stop again until I got some advantage on Vanessa. I walked back and helped her push the bike up. After 2 km the gradient becomes feasible again and for the next 10 km or so we were doing pretty well. Another ridiculously steep section of 1,5 km, however, got our legs shaking again but we managed to cycle the whole way. After that, the road flattens out and becomes an easy climb to the Haast Pass. We did it! The whole ascent is through incredibly spectacular scenery. The descent was fabulous, through beautiful forest.
We had lunch at Cameron Flat and continued to Makaroa, now through heavy rain. In Makarao we got ourselves a cabin where we are now, enjoying a cold beer and a sandfly free environment. Cheers!!
We had lunch at Cameron Flat and continued to Makaroa, now through heavy rain. In Makarao we got ourselves a cabin where we are now, enjoying a cold beer and a sandfly free environment. Cheers!!
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Haast to Pleasant Flat
In Haast, several cycle tourists who had seen our trolleys warned us of the extreme difficulty of the Haast Pass and how they thought it would not be feasible to cross it with the amount of stuff we were carrying. We decided to do it anyway, but with fear in our legs and heads. From Haast to Pleasant Flat was supposed to be a rolling uphill road but we didn´t struggle at all to do the 45 km. We even had time to have lunch at the falls of Roaring Billy, a beautiful spot easily reached after a 10 minute walk through the rainforest.
The campsite at Pleasant Flat is the only sign of human activity in this area. There is nothing for km and km and the views are spectacular. The whole are is dominated by the Haast River and Mount Aspiring. We lit a fire as soon as we got there, hoping this would discourage the thousands of sandflies that roam the site but it was not to be. We glazed ourselves in insect repellent but there are simply too many and they are all after one thing: tourist blood! Even putting on the strongest repellent which is pure poison does not help. The little bastards sat on our clothes until the nasty stuff starts to wear off and then they attack. No matter how hard we tried, in the end all three of us got bitten and their bites itch like hell. We hid in the tent. Hundreds of sandflies are nervously dancing around in the fronttent. They are in our bags, shoes, food....everywhere. We had a horrid night. Apart from the bites, Ella was teething badly and she cried for 4 hours. Not the best start for what supposedly was going to be a massive clinm of some 15 km to the Haast Pass.
The campsite at Pleasant Flat is the only sign of human activity in this area. There is nothing for km and km and the views are spectacular. The whole are is dominated by the Haast River and Mount Aspiring. We lit a fire as soon as we got there, hoping this would discourage the thousands of sandflies that roam the site but it was not to be. We glazed ourselves in insect repellent but there are simply too many and they are all after one thing: tourist blood! Even putting on the strongest repellent which is pure poison does not help. The little bastards sat on our clothes until the nasty stuff starts to wear off and then they attack. No matter how hard we tried, in the end all three of us got bitten and their bites itch like hell. We hid in the tent. Hundreds of sandflies are nervously dancing around in the fronttent. They are in our bags, shoes, food....everywhere. We had a horrid night. Apart from the bites, Ella was teething badly and she cried for 4 hours. Not the best start for what supposedly was going to be a massive clinm of some 15 km to the Haast Pass.
Monday, January 18, 2010
Haast
We had an awful night. We couldn´t sleep because the guy next door had been snoring all night like a lion, as if he was warning other lions to stay away from his pride. A few times I wanted to wake him up to tell him I wasn´t interested in his chicks but I tried headphone music instead. I am rather awake by noise that I have chosen myself, rather than the horrible sounds of this guy´s undergrounds.
At 05.30, Ella started to cry because the sandfly bites started to itch so much, the poor wee girl was in agony. I finally caught some sleep and when we woke up it was 09.30, too late to get prepared for the road. We decided to stay, which in hindsight was not such a bad thing as we could now relax before starting the Haast Pass.
The Haast Pass is the lowest pass over the Alps but we are still quite nervous about it because it is a 60 km long ascent. The first 45 km consist of a gradual climb which will take us to Pleasant Flat and then I guess it´ll turn into Awkward Steep. Who invents these names? “I live in Pleasant Flat”? I am worried that I will not be able to tow the trolley all the way to the top but I am going to give it a try. Vanessa loves the mountains so by the time I am finished climbing she´ll be having a coffee again
We will have no mobile reception or internet until we get to Wanaka.
At 05.30, Ella started to cry because the sandfly bites started to itch so much, the poor wee girl was in agony. I finally caught some sleep and when we woke up it was 09.30, too late to get prepared for the road. We decided to stay, which in hindsight was not such a bad thing as we could now relax before starting the Haast Pass.
The Haast Pass is the lowest pass over the Alps but we are still quite nervous about it because it is a 60 km long ascent. The first 45 km consist of a gradual climb which will take us to Pleasant Flat and then I guess it´ll turn into Awkward Steep. Who invents these names? “I live in Pleasant Flat”? I am worried that I will not be able to tow the trolley all the way to the top but I am going to give it a try. Vanessa loves the mountains so by the time I am finished climbing she´ll be having a coffee again
We will have no mobile reception or internet until we get to Wanaka.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Bruce Bay to Haast
Another day through thick and humid rainforest with the sun mercilessly beating down on us. First stop of the day was Lake Paringa, a beautiful spot for a picnic, if it wasn´t for the sandflies. Ella didn´t care and she went straight into the water. We had our lunch and were invited for coffee by Danish tourists. It was impossible to get Ella back into the buggy and we stayed for another hour in order to make sure she was happy to continue. It took a chocolate bar to convince her. We were not too sure where we were going to camp because there are no facilities until Haast. After a few climbs that were harder than we would have thought, probably because of the heat, we got to lake Moeraki. The scenery once again is absolutely stunning here and we decided to have a look at the Moeraki Lodge, maybe we could stay there or pitch the tent somewhere on the property. The location of the Moeraki Lodge is one of great privilege and tranquillity but unfortunately not within our budget. We were in a bit of a difficult situation because it now would be impossible to get Ella back into the buggy. The Moeraki Lodge staff, however, gave us another lesson in Kiwi hospitality and offered to drive us all the way into Haast. We could not refuse such an offer and were very lucky, happy and grateful to get all the way to Haast.
A quick stop at Knight´s Point where we could see the seals sunbathing and then straight into Haast for a shower and lunch. We met a Canadian couple whom we met a few times now and they must have wondered how on earth we got so fast to Haast. Well, when they read this post they´ll know. Sorry guys, we cheated!
A quick stop at Knight´s Point where we could see the seals sunbathing and then straight into Haast for a shower and lunch. We met a Canadian couple whom we met a few times now and they must have wondered how on earth we got so fast to Haast. Well, when they read this post they´ll know. Sorry guys, we cheated!
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Fox to Bruce Bay
Ever since we left Westport, highway 6 has been zigzagging its way along the West Coast, the zigs being right along the beach and cliffs, the zags through thick and humid rainforest or over the New Zealand Alps at the foot of glaciers and 4000 meter high mountain tops.
Leaving Fox meant we were gradually working our way out of the mountain range back to the sea through the rainforest and it was a very hot day for it. We could feel the humidity stick to our faces and taking off our t-shirts felt like peeling off a skin layer. Still, it was a nice change to the horrid conditions we had to cycle through further north.
For most of the day we enjoyed slightly downhill roads but Ella was not in the mood. After 17 kilometers we had to stop along the road to give Ella some time off from the buggy. After an hour or so we continued through the rainforest that looked impossible to walk through. The rainforest’s thick vegetation, sandflies and swampy soil makes this country a haven for wildlife and a nightmare for hikers. For kilometres and kilometres there is nothing but impenetrable forest which continues at the horizon up to the sheer walls of massive mountains. This green mass ends where the Alps become too high for vegetation and the landscape turns alpine…and the sea is only a few kilometres away, it´s just the most amazing place. Seagulls and cormorants can be seen flying over the rainforest’s treetops, wood pigeons fly off in panic when a hawk patrols the area, dozens of possums lie dead on the road with their bodies all blown up from the heat and the stench is awful, sandflies attack as soon as you there to stop, dark coloured creeks meander through the forest, and where bigger pools are formed, it smells of rotting vegetation.
The native trees, mainly kahikatae and rimu, stand tall and support dozens of other plant species, it´s as if looking at an apartment block. Some can grow up to 55 meters but they look even taller with their branchless trunks. This is what I came to New Zealand for, to see nature in its purest form. For most of the day I was cycling with my eyes on the forest soil or looking at the tree tops.
We intended to stop at Jacob’s river but we didn’t find any suitable accommodation. We continued to Bruce Bay where the road finally got back to the seashore. The beach was beautiful and wild…and sandfly infested! There is only one lodge in Bruce Bay and it was fully booked but the friendly owners put us up in a small cottage near the river. It was perfect and after 47 km in the heat we were lucky and very happy to have a whole house to ourselves. We went to the river for a swim, had a big carbohydrates filled meal and watched TV!!!
Leaving Fox meant we were gradually working our way out of the mountain range back to the sea through the rainforest and it was a very hot day for it. We could feel the humidity stick to our faces and taking off our t-shirts felt like peeling off a skin layer. Still, it was a nice change to the horrid conditions we had to cycle through further north.
For most of the day we enjoyed slightly downhill roads but Ella was not in the mood. After 17 kilometers we had to stop along the road to give Ella some time off from the buggy. After an hour or so we continued through the rainforest that looked impossible to walk through. The rainforest’s thick vegetation, sandflies and swampy soil makes this country a haven for wildlife and a nightmare for hikers. For kilometres and kilometres there is nothing but impenetrable forest which continues at the horizon up to the sheer walls of massive mountains. This green mass ends where the Alps become too high for vegetation and the landscape turns alpine…and the sea is only a few kilometres away, it´s just the most amazing place. Seagulls and cormorants can be seen flying over the rainforest’s treetops, wood pigeons fly off in panic when a hawk patrols the area, dozens of possums lie dead on the road with their bodies all blown up from the heat and the stench is awful, sandflies attack as soon as you there to stop, dark coloured creeks meander through the forest, and where bigger pools are formed, it smells of rotting vegetation.
The native trees, mainly kahikatae and rimu, stand tall and support dozens of other plant species, it´s as if looking at an apartment block. Some can grow up to 55 meters but they look even taller with their branchless trunks. This is what I came to New Zealand for, to see nature in its purest form. For most of the day I was cycling with my eyes on the forest soil or looking at the tree tops.
We intended to stop at Jacob’s river but we didn’t find any suitable accommodation. We continued to Bruce Bay where the road finally got back to the seashore. The beach was beautiful and wild…and sandfly infested! There is only one lodge in Bruce Bay and it was fully booked but the friendly owners put us up in a small cottage near the river. It was perfect and after 47 km in the heat we were lucky and very happy to have a whole house to ourselves. We went to the river for a swim, had a big carbohydrates filled meal and watched TV!!!
Friday, January 15, 2010
Franz Jozef to Fox
Yesterday we had a day off in Franz Jozef where Vanessa did a half day trip to the glacier. I went for a walk with Ella and Jeremy, a fellow cyclist we met a few times on the road, to the bottom of the glacier. It´s a beautiful walk and we were lucky with the weather too. Ella loved it because there were plenty of stones to throw and water to splash in. It´s a shame the place has become the tourist attraction of the West Coast. Franz Jozef town is a collection of tourist accommodations and has lost the Kiwi character. We had a good time though.
We wanted to leave early this morning because there were three big hills on the way to Fox but Ella had too much fun playing so in the end we didn´t get to leave until 10.30. By then it was pretty warm but who´s complaining? Only 25 km to Fox but 12 of them are steep climbing and it proved to be very tough. In fact, for me, this has been the toughest since we arrived in New Zealand. The first hill is tough in the beginning with some very steep sections but by the time the gradient gets a bit easier I was exhausted. Vanessa was going up like a mountain goat and I decided not to try to keep up with her because that would have destroyed me. The second climb begins almost inmediately after the first with no real descent between them. The scenery is amazing; this is proper high mountain landscape with snow caped mountains and beautiful green valleys. On the second climb I broke. At first I tried to work my way out of the valley but my legs gave in. The trolley is simply too heavy and I have to stop for e breather every 200 meters. Vanessa was nowhere to be seen. WHen I finally got to the top I thought this was it, that I was done climbing and I was literally laughing out loud when I started the very steep descent. That laughter very soon turned to a disbelief shouting when I saw the road started to climb again after crossing another one lane bridge.
I couldn´t believe it. How could I have forgotten that there were three and not two ascents?? The third climb was an impossible task and steeper than the two previous ones. I got off my bycicle and tried to push it up the hill. It was even worse and I had to stop. I waited for about 15 minutes to get myself together and had another attempt. I can´t remember how many times I stopped before finally the road dropped into Fox but by the time I got to the village I could hardly walk. I found Vanessa in a cafe having a coffee. smiling, as if she hadn´t suffered at all...
We had a big burger that night and slept very well
We wanted to leave early this morning because there were three big hills on the way to Fox but Ella had too much fun playing so in the end we didn´t get to leave until 10.30. By then it was pretty warm but who´s complaining? Only 25 km to Fox but 12 of them are steep climbing and it proved to be very tough. In fact, for me, this has been the toughest since we arrived in New Zealand. The first hill is tough in the beginning with some very steep sections but by the time the gradient gets a bit easier I was exhausted. Vanessa was going up like a mountain goat and I decided not to try to keep up with her because that would have destroyed me. The second climb begins almost inmediately after the first with no real descent between them. The scenery is amazing; this is proper high mountain landscape with snow caped mountains and beautiful green valleys. On the second climb I broke. At first I tried to work my way out of the valley but my legs gave in. The trolley is simply too heavy and I have to stop for e breather every 200 meters. Vanessa was nowhere to be seen. WHen I finally got to the top I thought this was it, that I was done climbing and I was literally laughing out loud when I started the very steep descent. That laughter very soon turned to a disbelief shouting when I saw the road started to climb again after crossing another one lane bridge.
I couldn´t believe it. How could I have forgotten that there were three and not two ascents?? The third climb was an impossible task and steeper than the two previous ones. I got off my bycicle and tried to push it up the hill. It was even worse and I had to stop. I waited for about 15 minutes to get myself together and had another attempt. I can´t remember how many times I stopped before finally the road dropped into Fox but by the time I got to the village I could hardly walk. I found Vanessa in a cafe having a coffee. smiling, as if she hadn´t suffered at all...
We had a big burger that night and slept very well
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Hari Hari to Franz Josef
The day started with a steep climb by the name of Mount Hercules...but it´s 1.15 in the morning so we´ll tell you about today some other day. Goodnight
Ross to Hari Hari
We got an early start and had beautiful weather. I soon lost Vanessa out of sight in the first climb of the day through thick forest but we met again at a lake with spectacular views to the Alps. We had lunch near the lake and Ella had her fun swimming. She was kicking and screaming when we tried to get her out. She loves the water!
The road was pretty much flat for the rest of the day, terrain that Vanessa can´t stand. The surroundings, however, just got better and better as we approached the mountains. Wide rivers crossed our paths and the only way to cross is to go over one lane bridges.
Our hosts in Ross had spoken to friends and in Hari Hari we could stay at their farm. A very friendly and warm reception once again awaited us and we had a very good night sleep in a sort of a shed turned guesthouse. Ella loved it because our hosts have 4 children, a dog, chicken, sheep, cows and a trampoline, one of Ella´s favourite passtimes!
The road was pretty much flat for the rest of the day, terrain that Vanessa can´t stand. The surroundings, however, just got better and better as we approached the mountains. Wide rivers crossed our paths and the only way to cross is to go over one lane bridges.
Our hosts in Ross had spoken to friends and in Hari Hari we could stay at their farm. A very friendly and warm reception once again awaited us and we had a very good night sleep in a sort of a shed turned guesthouse. Ella loved it because our hosts have 4 children, a dog, chicken, sheep, cows and a trampoline, one of Ella´s favourite passtimes!
Monday, January 11, 2010
Hokitika to Ross
We only did some 28 km yesterday but when we got to Ross, faith had it that we were to meet with Lisa, who cycled much of the world with her Bask husband Xabi. We stayed at their home in Ross and had a brilliant time. We had a barbecue, we spent the night in a caravan in their garden and luckily both Vanessa and I had to pee during the night, otherwise we would not have seen the stars in the sky...unbelievable!!
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Charleston to Hokitika
We have not been able to update the blog since Charleston but this new post will cover the days we spent cycling from Charleston to Punakaiki, Punakaiki to Barrytown, then to Greymouth and from Greymouth to Hokitika where we are stuck once again because of the rain. The road south of us is flooded and closed so we are waiting for the latest weather forecast. Apparantly, tomorrow the situation will improve so we might just give it a go. We decided to take it very easy so from Hokitika to Frans Jozef Glacier we calculated 5 days of cycling.
Cycling from Charleston to Punakaiki was beautiful. The day before we had arrived early in Charleston and we had time to do one of the coastal walks. I would advice everyone to stop in this little town (no shops) and do the coastal walk because it is spectacular. You walk through 3 meter high flax (an agave type plant but it has no relation) along muddy paths up to the rugged coast. The views are stunning and the Tasman Sea is extremely rough. From the top of the cliffs we could see sea lions swim in the massive swell. The noise of the waves crushing into the rocks is what a WWII bombing must have sound like.
In order to get out of Charleston and onto the coast road we had to climb some serious hills. Vanessa did well because I was not able to follow her in this mountainous area. By the time I struggled my way over the last hill, I lost sight of Vanessa. The downhill onto the West Coast Highway 6 is a jawdropping experience. Looking north we saw the silhouettes of the rugged coastline through the early morning mist. There was hardly any traffic and the wind was favourable. The mountains on our left are covered with subtropical forest; the road flattens out as we move further south; the sounds of the waves is the only noise around and the mist slowly makes way for an ever brighter sun. I am obviously no poet but this place gets you poetic, no doubt this must be good for the soul.
We got to Punakaiki at a very cyclist unfriendly campsite but who cares? We had a massive burger in the local tavern and went to see those famous pancake rocks and blowholes...some special place for gay people to gather? Although it is ridiculously touristy, it is actually well worth a visit. The rock formations are very peculiar and the sea makes for some impressive spectacle here by crushing in underneath the rocks against the coast.
The next morning we tried to get to Greymouth but after 16 km the rain was so heavy we decided to stop in the All Nations Hotel in Barrytown and we wouldn´t regret it. No sooner had we stopped or the rain turned into a vicious thunder storm. The owners of the place are very friendly and later that evening we had some good laughs and talks with the locals. Good vibes all around and one of those places we would have missed if it wasn´t for the rain.
From Barrytown to Greymouth was only 22 km and we got there in no time and in good weather. We were warned about Greymouth that it was an ugly town but we didn´t think so. We enjoyed walking around in the streets. We got a cabin in the motorcamp and met with a german couple with two babies, of ten months and two and a half years old...RESPECT!!!! We had a lot to talk about and exchanged ideas and experiences. We had dinner. shared wine and we had a great time. The next day the weather was supposed to be terrible but we got lucky. After heaving breakfast and family photos with our german friends which we hope to see again in Queenstown (they decided to cross over to Christchurch while we head further south), we got on our iron horses and head to Hokitika. Not much to tell about this day. 40 km of flat roads along a flat coast. Definitely not ugly but after the spectacular scenery of the days before, we were spoilt.
And here we are still, in Hokitika. The rain is coming like I have never seen before. The streets and roads are flooded. Hopefully tomorrow we can continue south.
THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS HAVE NOT BEEN CHECKED. SOME PHOTOS ARE THUS NOT EXACTLY EXHIBITION MATERIAL (we will clean this post up when we have more time and easy internet access)
Westport to Charleston
Charleston to Punakaiki
Punakaiki to Barrytown
Barrytown to Greymouth
Greymouth to Hokitika
Cycling from Charleston to Punakaiki was beautiful. The day before we had arrived early in Charleston and we had time to do one of the coastal walks. I would advice everyone to stop in this little town (no shops) and do the coastal walk because it is spectacular. You walk through 3 meter high flax (an agave type plant but it has no relation) along muddy paths up to the rugged coast. The views are stunning and the Tasman Sea is extremely rough. From the top of the cliffs we could see sea lions swim in the massive swell. The noise of the waves crushing into the rocks is what a WWII bombing must have sound like.
In order to get out of Charleston and onto the coast road we had to climb some serious hills. Vanessa did well because I was not able to follow her in this mountainous area. By the time I struggled my way over the last hill, I lost sight of Vanessa. The downhill onto the West Coast Highway 6 is a jawdropping experience. Looking north we saw the silhouettes of the rugged coastline through the early morning mist. There was hardly any traffic and the wind was favourable. The mountains on our left are covered with subtropical forest; the road flattens out as we move further south; the sounds of the waves is the only noise around and the mist slowly makes way for an ever brighter sun. I am obviously no poet but this place gets you poetic, no doubt this must be good for the soul.
We got to Punakaiki at a very cyclist unfriendly campsite but who cares? We had a massive burger in the local tavern and went to see those famous pancake rocks and blowholes...some special place for gay people to gather? Although it is ridiculously touristy, it is actually well worth a visit. The rock formations are very peculiar and the sea makes for some impressive spectacle here by crushing in underneath the rocks against the coast.
The next morning we tried to get to Greymouth but after 16 km the rain was so heavy we decided to stop in the All Nations Hotel in Barrytown and we wouldn´t regret it. No sooner had we stopped or the rain turned into a vicious thunder storm. The owners of the place are very friendly and later that evening we had some good laughs and talks with the locals. Good vibes all around and one of those places we would have missed if it wasn´t for the rain.
From Barrytown to Greymouth was only 22 km and we got there in no time and in good weather. We were warned about Greymouth that it was an ugly town but we didn´t think so. We enjoyed walking around in the streets. We got a cabin in the motorcamp and met with a german couple with two babies, of ten months and two and a half years old...RESPECT!!!! We had a lot to talk about and exchanged ideas and experiences. We had dinner. shared wine and we had a great time. The next day the weather was supposed to be terrible but we got lucky. After heaving breakfast and family photos with our german friends which we hope to see again in Queenstown (they decided to cross over to Christchurch while we head further south), we got on our iron horses and head to Hokitika. Not much to tell about this day. 40 km of flat roads along a flat coast. Definitely not ugly but after the spectacular scenery of the days before, we were spoilt.
And here we are still, in Hokitika. The rain is coming like I have never seen before. The streets and roads are flooded. Hopefully tomorrow we can continue south.
THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS HAVE NOT BEEN CHECKED. SOME PHOTOS ARE THUS NOT EXACTLY EXHIBITION MATERIAL (we will clean this post up when we have more time and easy internet access)
Westport to Charleston
Charleston to Punakaiki
Punakaiki to Barrytown
Barrytown to Greymouth
Greymouth to Hokitika
Thursday, January 7, 2010
stuck in Barrytown
We decided to cycle from Westport to Charleston and then to Greymouth but we are stuck now in Barrytown because of the rain. We had two days of extraordinary good cycling weather but today the rain has come back. We tried to get to Greymouth from Punakaiki but it got nasty.
We don't regret however taking the decision to continue. My wrist is not hurting too much and the scenery along the West coasr is absolutely stunning.
We'll try to get some photos on the website later today. Hopefully the weather will be better tomorrow.
We don't regret however taking the decision to continue. My wrist is not hurting too much and the scenery along the West coasr is absolutely stunning.
We'll try to get some photos on the website later today. Hopefully the weather will be better tomorrow.
Monday, January 4, 2010
Westport to ....
Goodmorning everyone,
After 3 days waiting for the rain to stop we have had enough and we are going to get back on the road, even though the weather has not improved. We are tired of sitting in a backpackers and we need to get out of Westport.
We have, however, a few more annoying issues to deal with. Vanessa is having a massive toothache and I had to go to the hospital where I was diagnosed with a sprang wrist. I am supposed to rest for two weeks but that would of course mean the end of our journey. We will give it a go today, hoping thinga will improve.
Fingers crossed
After 3 days waiting for the rain to stop we have had enough and we are going to get back on the road, even though the weather has not improved. We are tired of sitting in a backpackers and we need to get out of Westport.
We have, however, a few more annoying issues to deal with. Vanessa is having a massive toothache and I had to go to the hospital where I was diagnosed with a sprang wrist. I am supposed to rest for two weeks but that would of course mean the end of our journey. We will give it a go today, hoping thinga will improve.
Fingers crossed
Sunday, January 3, 2010
Murchison to Lyell
January 1 and we woke up with a massive hangover and just 5 hours of sleep but we still decided to do a bit of cycling. We got as far as Lyell and the trip today was easy stuff, almost all downhill and the sun in our faces. The DOC-campsite in Lyell is set in spectacular scenery. We arrived early so we went for a 2 hour walk in the nearby mountains. The forests here are just stunning, very lush, dark green and damp with little waterfalls coming down from the sheer mountain walls. A very inquisitive native bird, the Weka, spent the day going in and out our tent, looking for stuff to eat. Ella chased the poor bird until he got tired and dissapeared.
Late afternoon the wind started to pick up and we had an early night. However, extremely heavy rainfall woke us up and we didn´t catch most sleep for most of the night. The noise of the rain on the tent was so loud, pretty impressive.
When we woke up the next morning we couldn´t believe out eyes. The rain, which was still coming down heavily, had converted the front tent in a lake, and water was coming into the main tent. We quickly got our stuff together and hid it under a small shelter at the top of the campsite. There were a few other people there but they couldn´t help us. Their campervans had no room for our gear. We were stuck and the rain just kept falling. In a last desperate attempt to get us out of here, I approached a German couple with a campervan and they were willing to take Vanessa and Ella towards Westport, which was my main concern. I wasn´t keen on cycling in these conditions but I was a lot less keen to have Ella in this weather for much longer. The roads were flooded and just as I was preparing to get going, Ben and Saskia drove up the campsite. Vanessa and I fell on our knees...it´s hard to explain how we felt. the relief when we saw them...we kissed them as if we were family who hadn´t seen each other for 5 years. Pure joy!!! We got our stuff in their van and as we drove to Westport, we realised this would have been absolute hell to cycle through. The rain was worse as we approached Westport; all along the road there were everywhere waterfalls that spontaneously emerged from the mountainsides; big rocks lay in the middle of the road...scary stuff. Welcome to the South Island!
Once we got to Westport we checked into the Trip Inn Backpackeres while Ben and Saskia decided to continue South. We hope they are not going too far, we might need their help!
It is January 3 and we are still stuck in Westport due to the hurrendous weather
Late afternoon the wind started to pick up and we had an early night. However, extremely heavy rainfall woke us up and we didn´t catch most sleep for most of the night. The noise of the rain on the tent was so loud, pretty impressive.
When we woke up the next morning we couldn´t believe out eyes. The rain, which was still coming down heavily, had converted the front tent in a lake, and water was coming into the main tent. We quickly got our stuff together and hid it under a small shelter at the top of the campsite. There were a few other people there but they couldn´t help us. Their campervans had no room for our gear. We were stuck and the rain just kept falling. In a last desperate attempt to get us out of here, I approached a German couple with a campervan and they were willing to take Vanessa and Ella towards Westport, which was my main concern. I wasn´t keen on cycling in these conditions but I was a lot less keen to have Ella in this weather for much longer. The roads were flooded and just as I was preparing to get going, Ben and Saskia drove up the campsite. Vanessa and I fell on our knees...it´s hard to explain how we felt. the relief when we saw them...we kissed them as if we were family who hadn´t seen each other for 5 years. Pure joy!!! We got our stuff in their van and as we drove to Westport, we realised this would have been absolute hell to cycle through. The rain was worse as we approached Westport; all along the road there were everywhere waterfalls that spontaneously emerged from the mountainsides; big rocks lay in the middle of the road...scary stuff. Welcome to the South Island!
Once we got to Westport we checked into the Trip Inn Backpackeres while Ben and Saskia decided to continue South. We hope they are not going too far, we might need their help!
It is January 3 and we are still stuck in Westport due to the hurrendous weather
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