Notes on cycling in New Zealand

In Europe, New Zealand is portrayed as one of the most beautiful and spectacular countries in the world to visit. We decided to cycle its full length because we are used to do long cycling trips through Europe and we find it the most rewarding way to travel. Pedalling New Zealand from North to South is something we always wanted to do and the challenge got another dimension when Ella was born. She is now 14 months and is joining us in her little buggy.

Before we arrived in the land of the long white cloud we knew from other people that NZ roads aren't particularly made for cycling, but then again, apart from Holland, is there a country that has an extensive cycle path network? The answer should be a careful yes, as some countries are trying to build a similar network and are partly getting there. In California, for example, the government and local communities promoted the construction of a huge cycle path network, although the vast majority of people were taking the car for whatever distance. Why thus spend money on cycle paths you might ask? 10 years later, the vast majority of people are cycling to work and cycle their children to school because it is healthier, less stressful and safe again to do so. Give people the opportunity and they will rise up to the occasion!

Our experiences when cycling our first stage from Cape Reinga to Auckland, tell us that New Zealand is in desperate need of a similar cycle revolution. It will make cities a safer and much more pleasant place to roam. Imagine a city where you can just leave your children to run free? It is feasible, in fact, it already exists. In countries like Belgium, Holland, Denmark or Germany youth mainly cycle to school or university. Most youngsters probably think that it is a lot better to spend their money on beer than on a car. It is very common in belgian cities to have so many bicycles in front of a pub that you can't even see the facade. I do not condone drinking and driving but the first accident of a drunken cyclist with a pedestrian still has to be recorded.

We have very mixed feelings on cycling in the North. The first 70 km we were almost the only users, we hardly saw other people on the road. The few cars and logging trucks we did encounter respected us and got well out of our way. In turn, when the visibility was almost nil, we tried to signal when it was safe for them to pass. We only had kindly looks, extremely friendly drivers cheering us on and showing mutual respect.

From Awanui on, the situation changed drastically. The roads got busier and drivers, apart from not guarding enough distance, did not reduce speed while passing us by. That is a very dangerous trend that is only seen in countries where most youth never had the experience of cycling. It is not fair on NZ-drivers to say they are the worst and it is dangerous to demonise them. If you do not have the infrastucture to promote cycling, people will not understand the culture. You can hardly blame the car driver for something he/she has not been taught how to deal with. It would be a huge mistake to accuse car users to intentionally wanting to drive cyclists off the road. There might be the odd one out, mentally deranged enough to claim the road is not for cyclists and therefore to blame if somehting awful might happen. That sounds more like the type of comment and behaviour suitable for a regime that caused millions of deaths some 50 years ago in Europe. It is best not to waste any energy on extreme views such as these, and rather lobby for investment in cycling infrastructure, as this will solve most of the current issues.

We have used our bikes all our lives in Belgium and Spain, cycled the length of France, Spain, the Southwest of Ireland and England. We can assure you that the situation in New Zealand is not unique. In Spain, we do not even get on the main road because it is too dangerous and some Spanish drivers are hotheaded maniacs. In Ireland, we were literally blown off the road by a huge truck. The Portuguese share the same crazy behaviour as some of NZ drivers: even if there is a car coming from the opposite direction they will pass you, thus creating one of the most dangerous situations a cyclist can find him/herself in.

Europe is not the safe haven for cyclists as is suggested at times. We might have a far better cycle culture than NZ, but that is only true for a few countries and certainly does not apply for any of the meditterranean countries.

One of the main differences between New Zealand and most European countries is that they have a vast and extensive road network. In Europe, if you find yourself on a too busy road, you consult the map and will easily find an alternative. This is not the case in New Zealand. There are only two roads that take you straight from Cape Reinga to Auckland, all other alternatives go from west to east and it is a struggle to find a less busy and sealed road. Personally, we don't think having so few roads is a bad thing, it keeps the country wild and inaccessible, something most Europeans miss badly. It sounds like a contradiction but putting cycle paths in place will not jeapordise the vastness of this country.

After our experience on the busier main roads of the North, we now know that we need to stay on the smaller, less busy roads, whatever happens. The coastal road, for example, between Russell and Helena Bay is highly recommendable as an alternative to the Highway and although it is tough cycling, the views are stunning.

We hope to find better roads further south. We will let you know. You can follow our exact route on the interactive map of our website.

Regards

A FEW PHOTOS OF OUR TRIP IN THE NORTH: