We departed in depressing drizzle this morning but the road was dead flat. When we got to Paeroa the drizzle turned into heavy rain and it did not look too good. Passed Paeroa we got off the highway and took another small backroad and it stopped raining. A long, straight and dead flat road with some dramatic scenery as the clouds concealed the peaks of the Kaimai Range. It was a very impressive sight; whilst we were cycling through a very wide valley, the Kaimai Mountains seemed to rise out of nowhere. We got to Te Aroha, a cute little town with hot springs and an interesting history. A few very beautiful buildings in old colonial style but we had to make our way to the motorcamp before the rains returned. We did our shopping, and when we arrived at the campsite we decided to take a cabin rather than pitch the tent. Late afternoon we took a hot bath in one of the hot springs on site, with the mountains in the back, a sensational feeling after 7 days of non-stop cycling. An outdoor bath at 40 degrees looking out over the Kaimai Range. A belgian beer would have sent me straight to heaven. Tomorrow we are taking the day off.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Waihi to Karangahake
Before departing to Karangahake, a local cyclist couple offered a place to stay and some good advice about an alternative route to avoid the highway.
We took backroads all the way to Karangahake and it made the ride so much sweeter. Via Endowmnent Street we cycled parallel of the highway. The landscape is not very spectacular but it was still a beautiful route and enjoyable to do. After some 15 kilometers, the road bends towards the highway but just before getting on it, we took a walkway that crosses the Karangahake Gorge. Although the path was rather rough, it was very nice to cycle without traffic. Our personal advisors had warned us of a 1 kilometer long and dark tunnel but nothing could have prepared us for what we were about to experience. There was barely room for our trolleys in this pitch black and wet tunnel. What a sensation! Ella was singing and shouting the whole way and we joined her. It seemed to go on forever and when we finally got back into the daylight, the bridge in front of us was even narrower. Vanessa had 30 centimeters at each end of the buggy, just perfect. To get off the walkway we had to lift the buggies over a barrier...another great cycling adventure set in the spectacular scenery of the Karangahake Gorge.
In the afternoon we spent some time with our hosts at a farm and although Ella seemed to enjoy most of it, any animal bigger than a rabbit was seen as a serious threat and would not be approached by any means. The weather turned nasty.
There was still some time left for a walk through the spectacular gorge. The track takes you via a hanging bridge along the old railroad and gold mines that used to be here. It is quite a peculiar place and certainly worth a detour.
We had a lovely dinner with our new found friends and were lucky to sleep in a real bed yet again!
We were received and treated as king that afternoon at our guests´ house in Karangahake. Thank you guys for a great time, great food, good cycling advice and a lovely little playmate for Ella. We hope to see you one day in Spain so we can do some cycle trips together. We slept in a bed...again!
We took backroads all the way to Karangahake and it made the ride so much sweeter. Via Endowmnent Street we cycled parallel of the highway. The landscape is not very spectacular but it was still a beautiful route and enjoyable to do. After some 15 kilometers, the road bends towards the highway but just before getting on it, we took a walkway that crosses the Karangahake Gorge. Although the path was rather rough, it was very nice to cycle without traffic. Our personal advisors had warned us of a 1 kilometer long and dark tunnel but nothing could have prepared us for what we were about to experience. There was barely room for our trolleys in this pitch black and wet tunnel. What a sensation! Ella was singing and shouting the whole way and we joined her. It seemed to go on forever and when we finally got back into the daylight, the bridge in front of us was even narrower. Vanessa had 30 centimeters at each end of the buggy, just perfect. To get off the walkway we had to lift the buggies over a barrier...another great cycling adventure set in the spectacular scenery of the Karangahake Gorge.
In the afternoon we spent some time with our hosts at a farm and although Ella seemed to enjoy most of it, any animal bigger than a rabbit was seen as a serious threat and would not be approached by any means. The weather turned nasty.
There was still some time left for a walk through the spectacular gorge. The track takes you via a hanging bridge along the old railroad and gold mines that used to be here. It is quite a peculiar place and certainly worth a detour.
We had a lovely dinner with our new found friends and were lucky to sleep in a real bed yet again!
We were received and treated as king that afternoon at our guests´ house in Karangahake. Thank you guys for a great time, great food, good cycling advice and a lovely little playmate for Ella. We hope to see you one day in Spain so we can do some cycle trips together. We slept in a bed...again!
Friday, November 27, 2009
Whangamata to Waihi
Today was actually a lot easier than expected. The first 15 kilometers were rather flat and nice to cycle. There is a big hill before entering the town but we loved it. We got there in no time and the motorcamp of Waihi is beautiful. We pitched the tent near a little stream, which might not have been the best idea seeing that it was a sandflies infested area.
At first we don´t notice them but as soon as you are laying down the tent, we get the first bite. I think the first fly, after biting, then calls in all his buddies and attack with viciousness. Who knows, maybe they are angry because we pitch our tent on the spot where they usually play cards at night. I would be upset too.
At first we don´t notice them but as soon as you are laying down the tent, we get the first bite. I think the first fly, after biting, then calls in all his buddies and attack with viciousness. Who knows, maybe they are angry because we pitch our tent on the spot where they usually play cards at night. I would be upset too.
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Tairua to Whangamata
When cycling, take nothing for granted. We will always remember Tairua for the lovely people we were lucky enough to meet and the last three days had been simply sublime. The people, the scenery, the beaches, the perfect weather and great cycling roads made us feel like the most fortunate family on the planet. Leaving Tairua probably was one of the toughest decisions we had to make but without a campsite and the urge to keep advancing, we got on our bikes to head for Whangamata. We could not have felt better after the luck and great times we had the past 3 days but the weather was going to give us a reality check. No sooner had we left town, a ridiculously strong wind came head on. We struggled to get forward even downhill. At times we were cycling at 8 km/h downhill! The first 10 kilometers were agonising, with strong gusts of wind constantly trying to throw us off the road. When we got to the junction to turn onto the highway, Vanessa saw a sign saying it was another 22 kilometers to Whangamata, while our map stated 14. After 10 kilometers of suffering in the wind, this was the last thing we needed. We stopped to have a break as we could see how not only were we in for a much longer ride, the road also started to go uphill.
Just as we were struggling to find the energy and moral to continue, an Australian couple we met in Whitianga pulled over and joined us on our improvised break. A few laughs, encouraging words and energy bars made in Australia did the trick. A big thanks to our Aussie friends! Believe it or not, although it was a long and though climb, we had no trouble overcoming this one. The scenery here is quite dramatic, with a lot of pine forest for logging industry. Where logging has just been carried out, whole moutainsides are devoid of trees and look like it has been bombed. Not a very pretty sight but I could not help but enjoy it somehow. Maybe because it was so different from everything else we have seen before and the impact of logging at such a scale really is quite impressive. Pine forests are not native to New Zealand and most conservationists would like to see them replaced with native forest and I agree but still I have to admit I love these pine forests. The aroma is great and it reminds me of the south of Belgium. Majestic pine with that long grass undergrowth, these forests have a peculiar type of quietness and mystique about them.
After the climb we had lunch underneath some pine giants before completing the last 10 kilometers. For the first time on our tour, however, I fell without juice in the legs and I was feeling very weak. Vanessa was going strong and Ella was singing in her buggy but I struggled all the way to Whangamata.
There is nothing wrong with Whangamata but I saw the place through the eyes of an exhausted cyclist. I had to find energy from somewhere to pitch our tent and shop for our dinner. I didn´t like the campsite, nor the town. Things got really strange when after having set up camp and wondered into town, we met a couple we had encountered a few times before and once even way up North in Mangonui. They offered to stay at their place and so we found ourselves going back to the campsite to get the tent. By that time I was with energy again and we had a great evening, a beautiful dinner and a real bed to sleep in. Ella had a horrible night.
I am sure we will meet our friends Daniel, Tina and their cute son Fritz again!
Just as we were struggling to find the energy and moral to continue, an Australian couple we met in Whitianga pulled over and joined us on our improvised break. A few laughs, encouraging words and energy bars made in Australia did the trick. A big thanks to our Aussie friends! Believe it or not, although it was a long and though climb, we had no trouble overcoming this one. The scenery here is quite dramatic, with a lot of pine forest for logging industry. Where logging has just been carried out, whole moutainsides are devoid of trees and look like it has been bombed. Not a very pretty sight but I could not help but enjoy it somehow. Maybe because it was so different from everything else we have seen before and the impact of logging at such a scale really is quite impressive. Pine forests are not native to New Zealand and most conservationists would like to see them replaced with native forest and I agree but still I have to admit I love these pine forests. The aroma is great and it reminds me of the south of Belgium. Majestic pine with that long grass undergrowth, these forests have a peculiar type of quietness and mystique about them.
After the climb we had lunch underneath some pine giants before completing the last 10 kilometers. For the first time on our tour, however, I fell without juice in the legs and I was feeling very weak. Vanessa was going strong and Ella was singing in her buggy but I struggled all the way to Whangamata.
There is nothing wrong with Whangamata but I saw the place through the eyes of an exhausted cyclist. I had to find energy from somewhere to pitch our tent and shop for our dinner. I didn´t like the campsite, nor the town. Things got really strange when after having set up camp and wondered into town, we met a couple we had encountered a few times before and once even way up North in Mangonui. They offered to stay at their place and so we found ourselves going back to the campsite to get the tent. By that time I was with energy again and we had a great evening, a beautiful dinner and a real bed to sleep in. Ella had a horrible night.
I am sure we will meet our friends Daniel, Tina and their cute son Fritz again!
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Hahei to Tairua
Cycling from Hahei to Tairua via the Link road and Hot Water Beach road to then get back on the highway 25 is unbelievable. There is a big hill to climb just before entering Tairua but the scenery before that is just stunning. We had the Coromandel mountains with the Pinnacles at the horizon during the whole ride and we simply forgot we were cycling. Once we got on the highway it didn´t take long before the road started ascending. At first it is a very gradual climb but soon the gradient got nasty and in the heat we were struggling to get to the top.
The highway goes through the Coromandel Forest Park which provides for the perfect background of lush green forest. We stopped what we thought was the top but we still had quite a bit to go. In what I can only describe as an improvised car park, we thought to have a quick lunch when a man called Pete appeared from out of the forest. A jolly Londoner that had been living in New Zealand for the past 30 years. The modern world rat race had sent him into a deap and dark depression but he had managed to overcome these horrible times and now he was living a new life in Tairua. His new life, however, was tainted in a spectrum of reborn signs and visionary dreams that told him how to live, what to do and write. He seemed to me like the typical bloke that would not hurt a fly but I tend to avoid spending time with people who go on and on about their life and how we all could live without money and fear. Their presence drains all energy out of me. He offered to stay at his place but I did not feel like talking all night about his visions. He also told us we should cycle barefoot so as to allow the earth´s energy to flow freely. Is this guy out of touch or what. Did he not see the sharp teeth on my pedals? What kind of energy am I going to get from flesh wounds on the bottom of my feet? Anyway, it´s just anecdote and if Pete is reading this, no offence my friend, I just didn´t feel you.
After this brief encounter with the Holy Spirit, we made our way to the other side of the mountain and the scenery is just...well...this must be Coromandel at its best. Forest coloured with all sorts of green in every direction and the ocean at the horizon. A clear blue sky and we are smiling a big smile when we cruise downhill into Tairua.
We follow the motorcamp signs but we can´t find it. We ask a man on the street for the campsite and he tells us it has been closed down. A night at Hotel Self Proclaimed Jezus seems inevitable but the friendly man offers us his beach house for the night! We cannot believe it. Just a minute ago we were without accommodation and the next we find ourselves in a huge beachfront villa. Vanessa and I take Ella for a walk into town where we do our shopping for the evening. Tairua is a very cosy little town with a relaxed atmosphere. The ocean on one side, the town is set in a huge bay. There is a great playground where Ella is having the time of her life. A group of boys are jumping from the bridge into the bay.
That evening we have dinner in a real house, on the terrace with spectacular views over the ocean and tears in our eyes. It simply does not get any better than this. Vanessa, Ella and I would like to thank our friends in Tairua for their hospitality and friendship. We hope to return the favour one day in Barcelona!
The highway goes through the Coromandel Forest Park which provides for the perfect background of lush green forest. We stopped what we thought was the top but we still had quite a bit to go. In what I can only describe as an improvised car park, we thought to have a quick lunch when a man called Pete appeared from out of the forest. A jolly Londoner that had been living in New Zealand for the past 30 years. The modern world rat race had sent him into a deap and dark depression but he had managed to overcome these horrible times and now he was living a new life in Tairua. His new life, however, was tainted in a spectrum of reborn signs and visionary dreams that told him how to live, what to do and write. He seemed to me like the typical bloke that would not hurt a fly but I tend to avoid spending time with people who go on and on about their life and how we all could live without money and fear. Their presence drains all energy out of me. He offered to stay at his place but I did not feel like talking all night about his visions. He also told us we should cycle barefoot so as to allow the earth´s energy to flow freely. Is this guy out of touch or what. Did he not see the sharp teeth on my pedals? What kind of energy am I going to get from flesh wounds on the bottom of my feet? Anyway, it´s just anecdote and if Pete is reading this, no offence my friend, I just didn´t feel you.
After this brief encounter with the Holy Spirit, we made our way to the other side of the mountain and the scenery is just...well...this must be Coromandel at its best. Forest coloured with all sorts of green in every direction and the ocean at the horizon. A clear blue sky and we are smiling a big smile when we cruise downhill into Tairua.
We follow the motorcamp signs but we can´t find it. We ask a man on the street for the campsite and he tells us it has been closed down. A night at Hotel Self Proclaimed Jezus seems inevitable but the friendly man offers us his beach house for the night! We cannot believe it. Just a minute ago we were without accommodation and the next we find ourselves in a huge beachfront villa. Vanessa and I take Ella for a walk into town where we do our shopping for the evening. Tairua is a very cosy little town with a relaxed atmosphere. The ocean on one side, the town is set in a huge bay. There is a great playground where Ella is having the time of her life. A group of boys are jumping from the bridge into the bay.
That evening we have dinner in a real house, on the terrace with spectacular views over the ocean and tears in our eyes. It simply does not get any better than this. Vanessa, Ella and I would like to thank our friends in Tairua for their hospitality and friendship. We hope to return the favour one day in Barcelona!
Coromandel
Good morning everyone,
We are sorry we havent updated the website for the last 4 days. We are doing fine and advancing slowly buy surely. We are hoping to have some time tonight to reply to all the emails we received and to update the website with the latest news and photos.
Coromandel is an amazing place to cycle and after spending a day in out tent in Coromandal, we made it to Whitianga via the 309 Road, which has been a magical experience. We then stayed at Hahei where we think it is best not to be after Christmas but out of the season it is an extraordinary spot.
Yesterday we arrived at Tairuna from where we wll be leaving towards Whangamata. We are taking it slow because it is too beautiful here to just rush through.
Thank you everyone for the encouraging comments, donations, tips and questions. We will soon get back to all of you. Sorry for the delay!
We are sorry we havent updated the website for the last 4 days. We are doing fine and advancing slowly buy surely. We are hoping to have some time tonight to reply to all the emails we received and to update the website with the latest news and photos.
Coromandel is an amazing place to cycle and after spending a day in out tent in Coromandal, we made it to Whitianga via the 309 Road, which has been a magical experience. We then stayed at Hahei where we think it is best not to be after Christmas but out of the season it is an extraordinary spot.
Yesterday we arrived at Tairuna from where we wll be leaving towards Whangamata. We are taking it slow because it is too beautiful here to just rush through.
Thank you everyone for the encouraging comments, donations, tips and questions. We will soon get back to all of you. Sorry for the delay!
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Whitianga to Hahei
After the 309 experience of yesterday we thought to do another 30 or 40 km along the coast but when we got to Hahei we decided to stay on the beach for the rest of the day. Ever since we got to the Coromandel Peninsula we find it hard not to stay longer at the places we cycle through. In Coromandel we would have loved to go all the way to Port Charles but it would have been another two weeks of cycling.
Being on the road on a bicycle really is the way we are visiting a country but sometimes we just feel we miss out if we don´t take the time to stop. The more places we stop, the more difficult it becomes to get to our final destination. Today we decided it was time to relax and spend time on Hahei Beach.
In Whitianga we took the passenger ferry to cross the bay, an adventure in itself as the bikes and trolleys hardly fit in the ferry. After a very short climb we entered a new world. From the lush mountains inland we now found ourselves cycling along some astonishing beaches. A perfect blue sky, the heat of the sun had released that sweet barky scent from the pine forest we drove through, the ocean breeze filled our lungs with perfumed air and the mangroves gave off a strong seashore aroma...absolutely divine!
It is a relaxing and easy drive to Hahei. There are hardly any cars and as we cycled our way out of the bay, the road makes its way through pine forest and rolling green fields; in the distance the bay with its mangroves that turn into wetland before grassland becomes the playground of hundreds of scruffy looking cows. I say scruffy but these might actually be naturally skinny cows. In Europe we are used to see these big mamas with big hooters and thighs like tractors, and are probably fed pure muscle protein through a blender. A hawk seemed to be following us for kilometers and all of a sudden, a few 100 metres in front of us, we saw what looked like a possum or rabbit struggling to cross the road, intermittently getting up to advance half a meter and then fall down again. We first thought it was a rabbit that got hit by a car but it turned out to be a stoat dragging a rabbit he probably just caught and he had a real hard time trying to get it to his kitchen. Unusual to see this sort of thing during the day but I guess the stoat must have had a lucky day.
The beaches on the way to Hahei are of pure white sand and the ocean water is so clear, it has this milky greenblue colour that makes you feel you´re in paradise and you are the first one to discover the place.
We took the afternoon off and spent the rest of the day on the beach. Pohutukawas cling on to some extraordinary looking cliffs and it looked like the perfect spot to have lunch. So it was, with a view over the islands that are at the horizon of this gorgeous bay, but Ella decided to put her sandy feet into our plate. Thus endeth our lovely beach lunch.
From Hahei there is a nice walk to Cathedral Cove, a beach we unfortunately could not go as we heard it is an amazing place.
An unforgettable sunset made us feel very very happy to be there.
Being on the road on a bicycle really is the way we are visiting a country but sometimes we just feel we miss out if we don´t take the time to stop. The more places we stop, the more difficult it becomes to get to our final destination. Today we decided it was time to relax and spend time on Hahei Beach.
In Whitianga we took the passenger ferry to cross the bay, an adventure in itself as the bikes and trolleys hardly fit in the ferry. After a very short climb we entered a new world. From the lush mountains inland we now found ourselves cycling along some astonishing beaches. A perfect blue sky, the heat of the sun had released that sweet barky scent from the pine forest we drove through, the ocean breeze filled our lungs with perfumed air and the mangroves gave off a strong seashore aroma...absolutely divine!
It is a relaxing and easy drive to Hahei. There are hardly any cars and as we cycled our way out of the bay, the road makes its way through pine forest and rolling green fields; in the distance the bay with its mangroves that turn into wetland before grassland becomes the playground of hundreds of scruffy looking cows. I say scruffy but these might actually be naturally skinny cows. In Europe we are used to see these big mamas with big hooters and thighs like tractors, and are probably fed pure muscle protein through a blender. A hawk seemed to be following us for kilometers and all of a sudden, a few 100 metres in front of us, we saw what looked like a possum or rabbit struggling to cross the road, intermittently getting up to advance half a meter and then fall down again. We first thought it was a rabbit that got hit by a car but it turned out to be a stoat dragging a rabbit he probably just caught and he had a real hard time trying to get it to his kitchen. Unusual to see this sort of thing during the day but I guess the stoat must have had a lucky day.
The beaches on the way to Hahei are of pure white sand and the ocean water is so clear, it has this milky greenblue colour that makes you feel you´re in paradise and you are the first one to discover the place.
We took the afternoon off and spent the rest of the day on the beach. Pohutukawas cling on to some extraordinary looking cliffs and it looked like the perfect spot to have lunch. So it was, with a view over the islands that are at the horizon of this gorgeous bay, but Ella decided to put her sandy feet into our plate. Thus endeth our lovely beach lunch.
From Hahei there is a nice walk to Cathedral Cove, a beach we unfortunately could not go as we heard it is an amazing place.
An unforgettable sunset made us feel very very happy to be there.
Monday, November 23, 2009
Coromandel to Whitianga
Yesterday we spent the whole day watching the rain fall out of the sky and there really is not much more to tell so what follows is the story of our journey from Coromandel to Whitianga.
After spending a whole day in the rain, wondering around in a deserted Coromandel town we were more than keen to get back on our bicycles and see some of the Coromandel Peninsula. We still hadn´t decided on taking the highway or the 309 gravel road when we were already cycling through town. Vanessa and I were literally asking each other which road to take and we just couldn´t decide. We had the highway on our left when we were still undecided on the issue. While Vanessa kept asking me what road to take I kept replying I did not know. We passed the highway arguing and ended up laughing as we realised the highway was now behind us. 309 it is then.
We would not regret it, although I was very nervous as we were told this route was tough, steep and unsealed. The first part up to the Waiau waterworks and falls was not too bad and the track reminded us of our hometown training grounds in Spain. The gravel road and gradient were surprisingly similar to the mountain tracks back home.
The Waiau Waterworks is a funny place. The artwork is very touchable and appealed very much to us. The sculpture of a huge spider against the side of the road announces the entrance. You don´t want to miss this. We stopped at Waiau Falls where Ella had a field day. She loved the ice cold water and she indulged in her favourite passtime - throwing stones in the water. By now the sun stood high in the sky and it was hot.
The 309 got steeper and steeper and the gravel got wetter, turning to mud. It felt as if we were cycling on a spunge. The trolleys sunk into the mud and at times it was just impossible to stay on our bikes.
Closer to the top the scenery is quite impressive with mountains dressed with ferntrees, Kauri and other huge emergent trees everywhere you look. I think it is Manuka with their flowers in bloom that looked like a white carpet far up the mountain. Plenty of birds here. Fantail, tui, whitehead were amongst the birds we recognised.
The descent into Whitianga must have been the slowest we have ever done. I soon lost Vanessa as I constantly had to hit the breaks. The trolley would slide from one side to another and I thought it was best to secure the buggy and go slow rather than risk a major breakdown. I did most of the downhill at 10 km/h; I would have loved doing this one at full speed but going slow meant I enjoyed the scenery all the more. Crossing the Coromandel Forest via the 309 is quite an amazing experience and only the photos can give you a little clue of what it is like.
I would advice everyone to cycle the 309, alhough not with a roadbike.
Once you are at the bottom of the valley, there is a lovely recreation area besides the river, a perfect spot for lunch. As we had our food nicely laid out on some rocks, and Ella was running around happy and naked, she suddenly stopped right in front of us and while we were having our well deserved sandwiches, she started to go really red in the face. Vanessa and I knew what that was all about. NOOOOOO!!! Ella, not now. Yep, you guessed it, Ella just did a poo-poo all over our lunch. Nice one darling. Some flies didn´t even wait for it to cool off and we know why. These were NZ flies waiting for a Spanish paella! Anyway, enough talk about the indigestive system of our daughter. She loved it here by the river and we struggled to convince her she had to do another 5 km in the buggy.
Whitianga is a nice town with a beautiful beach. We couldn´t be bothered to cook tonight so we all had fish and chips. Gastronomic off road cycling, the new hole in the tourism market! At night the wind blew very strong and the tent got a good quality check.
After spending a whole day in the rain, wondering around in a deserted Coromandel town we were more than keen to get back on our bicycles and see some of the Coromandel Peninsula. We still hadn´t decided on taking the highway or the 309 gravel road when we were already cycling through town. Vanessa and I were literally asking each other which road to take and we just couldn´t decide. We had the highway on our left when we were still undecided on the issue. While Vanessa kept asking me what road to take I kept replying I did not know. We passed the highway arguing and ended up laughing as we realised the highway was now behind us. 309 it is then.
We would not regret it, although I was very nervous as we were told this route was tough, steep and unsealed. The first part up to the Waiau waterworks and falls was not too bad and the track reminded us of our hometown training grounds in Spain. The gravel road and gradient were surprisingly similar to the mountain tracks back home.
The Waiau Waterworks is a funny place. The artwork is very touchable and appealed very much to us. The sculpture of a huge spider against the side of the road announces the entrance. You don´t want to miss this. We stopped at Waiau Falls where Ella had a field day. She loved the ice cold water and she indulged in her favourite passtime - throwing stones in the water. By now the sun stood high in the sky and it was hot.
The 309 got steeper and steeper and the gravel got wetter, turning to mud. It felt as if we were cycling on a spunge. The trolleys sunk into the mud and at times it was just impossible to stay on our bikes.
Closer to the top the scenery is quite impressive with mountains dressed with ferntrees, Kauri and other huge emergent trees everywhere you look. I think it is Manuka with their flowers in bloom that looked like a white carpet far up the mountain. Plenty of birds here. Fantail, tui, whitehead were amongst the birds we recognised.
The descent into Whitianga must have been the slowest we have ever done. I soon lost Vanessa as I constantly had to hit the breaks. The trolley would slide from one side to another and I thought it was best to secure the buggy and go slow rather than risk a major breakdown. I did most of the downhill at 10 km/h; I would have loved doing this one at full speed but going slow meant I enjoyed the scenery all the more. Crossing the Coromandel Forest via the 309 is quite an amazing experience and only the photos can give you a little clue of what it is like.
I would advice everyone to cycle the 309, alhough not with a roadbike.
Once you are at the bottom of the valley, there is a lovely recreation area besides the river, a perfect spot for lunch. As we had our food nicely laid out on some rocks, and Ella was running around happy and naked, she suddenly stopped right in front of us and while we were having our well deserved sandwiches, she started to go really red in the face. Vanessa and I knew what that was all about. NOOOOOO!!! Ella, not now. Yep, you guessed it, Ella just did a poo-poo all over our lunch. Nice one darling. Some flies didn´t even wait for it to cool off and we know why. These were NZ flies waiting for a Spanish paella! Anyway, enough talk about the indigestive system of our daughter. She loved it here by the river and we struggled to convince her she had to do another 5 km in the buggy.
Whitianga is a nice town with a beautiful beach. We couldn´t be bothered to cook tonight so we all had fish and chips. Gastronomic off road cycling, the new hole in the tourism market! At night the wind blew very strong and the tent got a good quality check.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Response to Anna Garratt
In the Weekend Herald of Saturday 21 November, Anna Garrat expressed her concerns about our travelling mode so we thought it was very important to explain not just to Anna but also to the general public how Ella is experiencing the trip and how she is travelling. The following is how we responded and how we hope our response will be published:
"In response to Anna Garratt of Rotorua, rest assured we only travel when Ella is happy to do so. The average time on the road is around 3 to 4 hours per day, while the rest of the day she has time to chase the birds we see on our travels, laugh and shout at the cows and sheep we see on our roadside lunches, play for hours in the campsite kitchen with the other kids (Ella loves to trhow the pots and pans around), throw herself on the tent because it bounces, spend time on the campsite playgrounds, explore the beach for stuff she can find and throw in the sea, socialize with all the lovely people we meet, marvel at the dolphins we saw in Bay of Islands, run freely through the campsites, watch Baby Einstein on our little laptop but most of all she enjoys spending all her time with us rather than having to be in daycare 8 hours a day like most children. We sincerely believe our child is enjoying so much more freedom than most children that are put in the car to get to daycare and have to spend most their time inside the house. Ella gets to enjoy the outdoors. To compare six months of undivided attention from both parents and having to spend a few hours per day in a buggy while she's asleep to prison is quite a stretch.
We would like to invite Anna to have a coffee with us when we pass through Rotorua as we might have given the wrong idea about how we are travelling. It goes without saying that the baby's interests and safety go first.
Kindest regards
Wouter and Vanessa
"In response to Anna Garratt of Rotorua, rest assured we only travel when Ella is happy to do so. The average time on the road is around 3 to 4 hours per day, while the rest of the day she has time to chase the birds we see on our travels, laugh and shout at the cows and sheep we see on our roadside lunches, play for hours in the campsite kitchen with the other kids (Ella loves to trhow the pots and pans around), throw herself on the tent because it bounces, spend time on the campsite playgrounds, explore the beach for stuff she can find and throw in the sea, socialize with all the lovely people we meet, marvel at the dolphins we saw in Bay of Islands, run freely through the campsites, watch Baby Einstein on our little laptop but most of all she enjoys spending all her time with us rather than having to be in daycare 8 hours a day like most children. We sincerely believe our child is enjoying so much more freedom than most children that are put in the car to get to daycare and have to spend most their time inside the house. Ella gets to enjoy the outdoors. To compare six months of undivided attention from both parents and having to spend a few hours per day in a buggy while she's asleep to prison is quite a stretch.
We would like to invite Anna to have a coffee with us when we pass through Rotorua as we might have given the wrong idea about how we are travelling. It goes without saying that the baby's interests and safety go first.
Kindest regards
Wouter and Vanessa
Coromandel Town
We took the ferry from downtown Auckland to Coromandel town and when we got to the pier Ella was not in the mood to get into the buggy so we spent 45 minutes watching her play on the beach. By that time Rex of Forest and Bird made it to the pier on his bicycle to give us a warm Coromandel welcome. Once Ella was ready we cycled the 10 km into the lovely little town. The sun was shining, the bars and cafes were fille with people and the campsite was perfect, just like our day.
Rex and Lynette took us for a tour to the beautiful surroundings just north of Coromandel where you can find stunning beaches with spectacular views. It was however the Kauri Grove Walk that impressed us most. The track will take you through a small but lush forest with plenty of native trees. Forest and Bird members have done great work over the years to replant Kauri and restore the area.
The Coromandel area is in great need for volunteers to keep F&B's work going so if you want to make yourself useful and help with restoring your natural heritage, contact Forest and Bird!!
We heard that the northern most point of the peninsula is of extraordinary beauty and that there was a great project in the Mouhau Range being carried out, but as has ocurred before on our journey through New Zealand, we had to give it a miss. It is simply impossible to do and see everything, especially when there is so much of it. We were starting to forget that the actual cycling is what we will see of New Zealand. In the end, we will have seen more than most campervan tourists but the bicycle can also be a restriction at times.
From our tent we could see the highway out of Coromandel and our legs were shaking already, what a hill! I couldn´t keep my eyes off it and think of the inevitability of having to go over while Vanessa thought that was the stupidest thing I had ever done. Stop looking at it! But, Rex had talked to us about an alternative route: the unsealed and infamous 309 gravel road, known to swallow cyclists whole. Rex had told us this also was a though climb and it wasn´t going to be easy with the buggies on the gravel. What to do? We will decide tomorrow.
Rex and Lynette took us for a tour to the beautiful surroundings just north of Coromandel where you can find stunning beaches with spectacular views. It was however the Kauri Grove Walk that impressed us most. The track will take you through a small but lush forest with plenty of native trees. Forest and Bird members have done great work over the years to replant Kauri and restore the area.
The Coromandel area is in great need for volunteers to keep F&B's work going so if you want to make yourself useful and help with restoring your natural heritage, contact Forest and Bird!!
We heard that the northern most point of the peninsula is of extraordinary beauty and that there was a great project in the Mouhau Range being carried out, but as has ocurred before on our journey through New Zealand, we had to give it a miss. It is simply impossible to do and see everything, especially when there is so much of it. We were starting to forget that the actual cycling is what we will see of New Zealand. In the end, we will have seen more than most campervan tourists but the bicycle can also be a restriction at times.
From our tent we could see the highway out of Coromandel and our legs were shaking already, what a hill! I couldn´t keep my eyes off it and think of the inevitability of having to go over while Vanessa thought that was the stupidest thing I had ever done. Stop looking at it! But, Rex had talked to us about an alternative route: the unsealed and infamous 309 gravel road, known to swallow cyclists whole. Rex had told us this also was a though climb and it wasn´t going to be easy with the buggies on the gravel. What to do? We will decide tomorrow.
Friday, November 20, 2009
Back on the road
We just wanted to write a few thankful words to everyone who have reacted to our articles, have been so kind to make a donation to Forest and Bird and have offered us challenges and places to stay. It is much more appreciated than we can ever express via a quick post on our blog but we hope you all realise that your support is giving us wings!
We are starting to become aware that the cycling issue is a hot topic in New Zealand and if our experiences and comments help to improve the situation, we will keep reporting as we go. Tomorrow we will be back on the road so email-responses might come in slower but we are doing every effort to stay in touch.
A lot of people have also come back to us, worrying about our safety. After a traumatic ride from Kerikeri to Paihia, we realised that only non-highway roads are to be cycled in New Zealand. We are making sure that we take the safest routes and we will make sure to let you know which they are.
Also, many people have commented that we should cycle the West Coast of the South Island so we are considering changing the route.
Again, many thanks for your support. Keep track of us.
Kindest regards
We are starting to become aware that the cycling issue is a hot topic in New Zealand and if our experiences and comments help to improve the situation, we will keep reporting as we go. Tomorrow we will be back on the road so email-responses might come in slower but we are doing every effort to stay in touch.
A lot of people have also come back to us, worrying about our safety. After a traumatic ride from Kerikeri to Paihia, we realised that only non-highway roads are to be cycled in New Zealand. We are making sure that we take the safest routes and we will make sure to let you know which they are.
Also, many people have commented that we should cycle the West Coast of the South Island so we are considering changing the route.
Again, many thanks for your support. Keep track of us.
Kindest regards
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Notes on cycling in New Zealand
In Europe, New Zealand is portrayed as one of the most beautiful and spectacular countries in the world to visit. We decided to cycle its full length because we are used to do long cycling trips through Europe and we find it the most rewarding way to travel. Pedalling New Zealand from North to South is something we always wanted to do and the challenge got another dimension when Ella was born. She is now 14 months and is joining us in her little buggy.
Before we arrived in the land of the long white cloud we knew from other people that NZ roads aren't particularly made for cycling, but then again, apart from Holland, is there a country that has an extensive cycle path network? The answer should be a careful yes, as some countries are trying to build a similar network and are partly getting there. In California, for example, the government and local communities promoted the construction of a huge cycle path network, although the vast majority of people were taking the car for whatever distance. Why thus spend money on cycle paths you might ask? 10 years later, the vast majority of people are cycling to work and cycle their children to school because it is healthier, less stressful and safe again to do so. Give people the opportunity and they will rise up to the occasion!
Our experiences when cycling our first stage from Cape Reinga to Auckland, tell us that New Zealand is in desperate need of a similar cycle revolution. It will make cities a safer and much more pleasant place to roam. Imagine a city where you can just leave your children to run free? It is feasible, in fact, it already exists. In countries like Belgium, Holland, Denmark or Germany youth mainly cycle to school or university. Most youngsters probably think that it is a lot better to spend their money on beer than on a car. It is very common in belgian cities to have so many bicycles in front of a pub that you can't even see the facade. I do not condone drinking and driving but the first accident of a drunken cyclist with a pedestrian still has to be recorded.
We have very mixed feelings on cycling in the North. The first 70 km we were almost the only users, we hardly saw other people on the road. The few cars and logging trucks we did encounter respected us and got well out of our way. In turn, when the visibility was almost nil, we tried to signal when it was safe for them to pass. We only had kindly looks, extremely friendly drivers cheering us on and showing mutual respect.
From Awanui on, the situation changed drastically. The roads got busier and drivers, apart from not guarding enough distance, did not reduce speed while passing us by. That is a very dangerous trend that is only seen in countries where most youth never had the experience of cycling. It is not fair on NZ-drivers to say they are the worst and it is dangerous to demonise them. If you do not have the infrastucture to promote cycling, people will not understand the culture. You can hardly blame the car driver for something he/she has not been taught how to deal with. It would be a huge mistake to accuse car users to intentionally wanting to drive cyclists off the road. There might be the odd one out, mentally deranged enough to claim the road is not for cyclists and therefore to blame if somehting awful might happen. That sounds more like the type of comment and behaviour suitable for a regime that caused millions of deaths some 50 years ago in Europe. It is best not to waste any energy on extreme views such as these, and rather lobby for investment in cycling infrastructure, as this will solve most of the current issues.
We have used our bikes all our lives in Belgium and Spain, cycled the length of France, Spain, the Southwest of Ireland and England. We can assure you that the situation in New Zealand is not unique. In Spain, we do not even get on the main road because it is too dangerous and some Spanish drivers are hotheaded maniacs. In Ireland, we were literally blown off the road by a huge truck. The Portuguese share the same crazy behaviour as some of NZ drivers: even if there is a car coming from the opposite direction they will pass you, thus creating one of the most dangerous situations a cyclist can find him/herself in.
Europe is not the safe haven for cyclists as is suggested at times. We might have a far better cycle culture than NZ, but that is only true for a few countries and certainly does not apply for any of the meditterranean countries.
One of the main differences between New Zealand and most European countries is that they have a vast and extensive road network. In Europe, if you find yourself on a too busy road, you consult the map and will easily find an alternative. This is not the case in New Zealand. There are only two roads that take you straight from Cape Reinga to Auckland, all other alternatives go from west to east and it is a struggle to find a less busy and sealed road. Personally, we don't think having so few roads is a bad thing, it keeps the country wild and inaccessible, something most Europeans miss badly. It sounds like a contradiction but putting cycle paths in place will not jeapordise the vastness of this country.
After our experience on the busier main roads of the North, we now know that we need to stay on the smaller, less busy roads, whatever happens. The coastal road, for example, between Russell and Helena Bay is highly recommendable as an alternative to the Highway and although it is tough cycling, the views are stunning.
We hope to find better roads further south. We will let you know. You can follow our exact route on the interactive map of our website.
Regards
A FEW PHOTOS OF OUR TRIP IN THE NORTH:
Before we arrived in the land of the long white cloud we knew from other people that NZ roads aren't particularly made for cycling, but then again, apart from Holland, is there a country that has an extensive cycle path network? The answer should be a careful yes, as some countries are trying to build a similar network and are partly getting there. In California, for example, the government and local communities promoted the construction of a huge cycle path network, although the vast majority of people were taking the car for whatever distance. Why thus spend money on cycle paths you might ask? 10 years later, the vast majority of people are cycling to work and cycle their children to school because it is healthier, less stressful and safe again to do so. Give people the opportunity and they will rise up to the occasion!
Our experiences when cycling our first stage from Cape Reinga to Auckland, tell us that New Zealand is in desperate need of a similar cycle revolution. It will make cities a safer and much more pleasant place to roam. Imagine a city where you can just leave your children to run free? It is feasible, in fact, it already exists. In countries like Belgium, Holland, Denmark or Germany youth mainly cycle to school or university. Most youngsters probably think that it is a lot better to spend their money on beer than on a car. It is very common in belgian cities to have so many bicycles in front of a pub that you can't even see the facade. I do not condone drinking and driving but the first accident of a drunken cyclist with a pedestrian still has to be recorded.
We have very mixed feelings on cycling in the North. The first 70 km we were almost the only users, we hardly saw other people on the road. The few cars and logging trucks we did encounter respected us and got well out of our way. In turn, when the visibility was almost nil, we tried to signal when it was safe for them to pass. We only had kindly looks, extremely friendly drivers cheering us on and showing mutual respect.
From Awanui on, the situation changed drastically. The roads got busier and drivers, apart from not guarding enough distance, did not reduce speed while passing us by. That is a very dangerous trend that is only seen in countries where most youth never had the experience of cycling. It is not fair on NZ-drivers to say they are the worst and it is dangerous to demonise them. If you do not have the infrastucture to promote cycling, people will not understand the culture. You can hardly blame the car driver for something he/she has not been taught how to deal with. It would be a huge mistake to accuse car users to intentionally wanting to drive cyclists off the road. There might be the odd one out, mentally deranged enough to claim the road is not for cyclists and therefore to blame if somehting awful might happen. That sounds more like the type of comment and behaviour suitable for a regime that caused millions of deaths some 50 years ago in Europe. It is best not to waste any energy on extreme views such as these, and rather lobby for investment in cycling infrastructure, as this will solve most of the current issues.
We have used our bikes all our lives in Belgium and Spain, cycled the length of France, Spain, the Southwest of Ireland and England. We can assure you that the situation in New Zealand is not unique. In Spain, we do not even get on the main road because it is too dangerous and some Spanish drivers are hotheaded maniacs. In Ireland, we were literally blown off the road by a huge truck. The Portuguese share the same crazy behaviour as some of NZ drivers: even if there is a car coming from the opposite direction they will pass you, thus creating one of the most dangerous situations a cyclist can find him/herself in.
Europe is not the safe haven for cyclists as is suggested at times. We might have a far better cycle culture than NZ, but that is only true for a few countries and certainly does not apply for any of the meditterranean countries.
One of the main differences between New Zealand and most European countries is that they have a vast and extensive road network. In Europe, if you find yourself on a too busy road, you consult the map and will easily find an alternative. This is not the case in New Zealand. There are only two roads that take you straight from Cape Reinga to Auckland, all other alternatives go from west to east and it is a struggle to find a less busy and sealed road. Personally, we don't think having so few roads is a bad thing, it keeps the country wild and inaccessible, something most Europeans miss badly. It sounds like a contradiction but putting cycle paths in place will not jeapordise the vastness of this country.
After our experience on the busier main roads of the North, we now know that we need to stay on the smaller, less busy roads, whatever happens. The coastal road, for example, between Russell and Helena Bay is highly recommendable as an alternative to the Highway and although it is tough cycling, the views are stunning.
We hope to find better roads further south. We will let you know. You can follow our exact route on the interactive map of our website.
Regards
A FEW PHOTOS OF OUR TRIP IN THE NORTH:
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Bird and Native Forest Sanctuary: Tiritiri Matangi Island
Tiritiri Matangi is an island off the coast of Auckland and it was the stage for one of the most ambitious replanting programmes we have ever laid eyes on.
The replanting programme began in 1984 and its success is thanks to the support and involvement of thousands of volunteers. The programme was completed in 1994 with over 250,000 trees being planted. The establishment of a tree nursery was central to the replanting project and Pohutukawa, New Zeland's Christmas Tree, has been the main tree planted initially. This fast-growing tree forms a canopy for other slower-growing species such as taraire, kohekohe or puriri, shading out the thick grass and providing shelter from the exposed conditions. The droppings of seed-eating birds help to spread seed and contribute to the regrowth of the forest.
New Zealand's island sanctuaries help to ensure the survival of many rare and endangered plant and animal species. They are especially valuable because they are easier to keep free of predators tham mainland areas.
Many island sanctuaries such as Little Barrier only allow the public restricted access to ensure that there is minimum disturbance of wildlife.
Visiting Tiritiri Matangi is easy. You take the ferry from downtown Aukland and book the guided tour, which is essential if you want to understand the history of the project and know the birds that reside on this reforested island.
For the first time since we arrived in New Zealand we understood what an extremely delicate business nature conservation is in this country. We had to stop comparing the fauna and flora situation in Europe with what is going on here. New Zealand never had any big land mammals and its native birds never had a natural enemy but all that changed with the introduction of predators. Rats, stoats, possums, cats and dogs are making it extremely difficult to restore the population of native birds and this was never the case in Europe. We were very unpleasantly surprised when we cycled for two weeks and hardly saw wildlife. The same species of birds kept showing up while in Europe all kinds of species live just around the corner. It all becomes clear when visiting Tiritiri Matangi. It took almost 30 years to restore this island and reintroduce native species, and it only takes one inconsiderate visitor to release a few rats to put all this work in jeapordy. We now understood how hard the conservation task must be on the mainland, where predators are difficult to control and farming is the main pollution factor. It can be changed and the situation can be improved but it seems even harder in New Zealand for the reasons mentioned above.
Personal note on nature conservation: I can't stop thinking about how to make nature conservation a big bucks business. Maybe it is because I have worked for big companies but it seems obvious that the corporate world and thus politicians would only jump ship if interesting investment opportunities are involved. Sure, we know by now that natural resources are extremely valuable and worth a lot of money but nature conservation should be profitable in its project form, not as a resource. There has to be a way of making money out of preserving our natural heritage. I hope I am mistaken but it seems to me that nature conservation costs money and is mostly carried out by volunteers. There will never be enough political will and corporate involvement if there is no hard cash to be gained. I would like to see this blog to become a think tank on the subject.
In the meantime, I hope this article encourages to go and see Tiritiri because it is one of those magical places that you should not miss, and where you can spot rare birds like the hihi, saddleback, takahe, kokako, rifleman but alse the rare tuatara, a reptile endemic to New Zealand. When in New Zealand people refer to bringing back the birdsongs to their forest, this is exactly what they mean. New Zealand's forests have been devoid of the songs of their native birds and they are desperately trying to bring them back. Now, how can we make big bucks out of those efforts so that the cold and merciless corporate world sees the benefits of protecting our fauna and flora??
The replanting programme began in 1984 and its success is thanks to the support and involvement of thousands of volunteers. The programme was completed in 1994 with over 250,000 trees being planted. The establishment of a tree nursery was central to the replanting project and Pohutukawa, New Zeland's Christmas Tree, has been the main tree planted initially. This fast-growing tree forms a canopy for other slower-growing species such as taraire, kohekohe or puriri, shading out the thick grass and providing shelter from the exposed conditions. The droppings of seed-eating birds help to spread seed and contribute to the regrowth of the forest.
New Zealand's island sanctuaries help to ensure the survival of many rare and endangered plant and animal species. They are especially valuable because they are easier to keep free of predators tham mainland areas.
Many island sanctuaries such as Little Barrier only allow the public restricted access to ensure that there is minimum disturbance of wildlife.
Visiting Tiritiri Matangi is easy. You take the ferry from downtown Aukland and book the guided tour, which is essential if you want to understand the history of the project and know the birds that reside on this reforested island.
For the first time since we arrived in New Zealand we understood what an extremely delicate business nature conservation is in this country. We had to stop comparing the fauna and flora situation in Europe with what is going on here. New Zealand never had any big land mammals and its native birds never had a natural enemy but all that changed with the introduction of predators. Rats, stoats, possums, cats and dogs are making it extremely difficult to restore the population of native birds and this was never the case in Europe. We were very unpleasantly surprised when we cycled for two weeks and hardly saw wildlife. The same species of birds kept showing up while in Europe all kinds of species live just around the corner. It all becomes clear when visiting Tiritiri Matangi. It took almost 30 years to restore this island and reintroduce native species, and it only takes one inconsiderate visitor to release a few rats to put all this work in jeapordy. We now understood how hard the conservation task must be on the mainland, where predators are difficult to control and farming is the main pollution factor. It can be changed and the situation can be improved but it seems even harder in New Zealand for the reasons mentioned above.
Personal note on nature conservation: I can't stop thinking about how to make nature conservation a big bucks business. Maybe it is because I have worked for big companies but it seems obvious that the corporate world and thus politicians would only jump ship if interesting investment opportunities are involved. Sure, we know by now that natural resources are extremely valuable and worth a lot of money but nature conservation should be profitable in its project form, not as a resource. There has to be a way of making money out of preserving our natural heritage. I hope I am mistaken but it seems to me that nature conservation costs money and is mostly carried out by volunteers. There will never be enough political will and corporate involvement if there is no hard cash to be gained. I would like to see this blog to become a think tank on the subject.
In the meantime, I hope this article encourages to go and see Tiritiri because it is one of those magical places that you should not miss, and where you can spot rare birds like the hihi, saddleback, takahe, kokako, rifleman but alse the rare tuatara, a reptile endemic to New Zealand. When in New Zealand people refer to bringing back the birdsongs to their forest, this is exactly what they mean. New Zealand's forests have been devoid of the songs of their native birds and they are desperately trying to bring them back. Now, how can we make big bucks out of those efforts so that the cold and merciless corporate world sees the benefits of protecting our fauna and flora??
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Russell to Whangaruru (Bland Bay)
Our time in Russell was up but it was an unforgettable stay. Getting the ferry from Pahia to Russell with all our gear made our arrival quite special and we felt a bit more adventurous than usual.
The campsite we stayed on is beautiful with great cooking facilities and we met some fantastic people here. If you are reading this Steve, you must have made it over the Helena Hill and I am sure you agree it was an easy climb! We hope to see you somewhere on the way south. We are in Auckland at the moment until saturday. We took the Northern Express from Whangarei because we just could not find a decent alternative route for the Highway 1 into Auckland. Safety first ofcourse but we still feel bad about not having cycled the whole way. Anyway, go for it Steve and don't smoke too much!
A big hello to the lovely couple from California, get in touch!
Russell to us was more than just a nice colonial style town. We saw dolphins and a Bryde's whale with calf for the first time in our lives. It was the best experience you can imagine.
The morning we left we did not quite know what to expect because everybody kept saying how hilly the coastal road to Wakaphara was. No sooner had we left the campsite and we got confronted with a short but ridiculously steep hill. That should get the legs started. We did 34 km in total on seriously hilly terrain but we had the day of our lives. We were just unstoppable and climbed those hills like proper EPO-shooting professionals. I guess the scenery took our minds off the pain. The 34 km between Russell and Bland Bay via the coastal run through some amazing forests, bays and cliffs...and it's virtually empty as well. There are no villages and we hardly saw other people. We had lunch on a beautiful little bay infested with sandflies, nasty little creatures. I have to say we are a bit surprised not to see more wildlife. I don't know if this is because they are so hard to spot and more elusive than in Europe but we hardly see any birds and mammals are nowhere to be seen. It feels a bit empty.
The last 7 km to Bland Bay are through some amazing scenery of rolling green fields and a pine forest but we had enough of hills for today. When we get to the village, it turns out there is no shop and the campsite is closed. We are scarce on food and water and luckily we find a B+B right on the beach. Our hosts cook us a beautiful dinner with fresh mussels and veggies from the garden. I can't tell you how good that tasted after a hard day cycling.
Just besides the B+B is a Pa, an ancient Maori fortress with a buriel/battle ground in front of it. Our hosts tell us that from time to time, heavy storms uncover bones and skulls of battles long fought. You will do well not to touch them.
We sleep in a real bed for the first time in two weeks, not the worst experience I can tell you! Good night.
The campsite we stayed on is beautiful with great cooking facilities and we met some fantastic people here. If you are reading this Steve, you must have made it over the Helena Hill and I am sure you agree it was an easy climb! We hope to see you somewhere on the way south. We are in Auckland at the moment until saturday. We took the Northern Express from Whangarei because we just could not find a decent alternative route for the Highway 1 into Auckland. Safety first ofcourse but we still feel bad about not having cycled the whole way. Anyway, go for it Steve and don't smoke too much!
A big hello to the lovely couple from California, get in touch!
Russell to us was more than just a nice colonial style town. We saw dolphins and a Bryde's whale with calf for the first time in our lives. It was the best experience you can imagine.
The morning we left we did not quite know what to expect because everybody kept saying how hilly the coastal road to Wakaphara was. No sooner had we left the campsite and we got confronted with a short but ridiculously steep hill. That should get the legs started. We did 34 km in total on seriously hilly terrain but we had the day of our lives. We were just unstoppable and climbed those hills like proper EPO-shooting professionals. I guess the scenery took our minds off the pain. The 34 km between Russell and Bland Bay via the coastal run through some amazing forests, bays and cliffs...and it's virtually empty as well. There are no villages and we hardly saw other people. We had lunch on a beautiful little bay infested with sandflies, nasty little creatures. I have to say we are a bit surprised not to see more wildlife. I don't know if this is because they are so hard to spot and more elusive than in Europe but we hardly see any birds and mammals are nowhere to be seen. It feels a bit empty.
The last 7 km to Bland Bay are through some amazing scenery of rolling green fields and a pine forest but we had enough of hills for today. When we get to the village, it turns out there is no shop and the campsite is closed. We are scarce on food and water and luckily we find a B+B right on the beach. Our hosts cook us a beautiful dinner with fresh mussels and veggies from the garden. I can't tell you how good that tasted after a hard day cycling.
Just besides the B+B is a Pa, an ancient Maori fortress with a buriel/battle ground in front of it. Our hosts tell us that from time to time, heavy storms uncover bones and skulls of battles long fought. You will do well not to touch them.
We sleep in a real bed for the first time in two weeks, not the worst experience I can tell you! Good night.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Kerikeri to Russell
After spending 3 days in the Hone Heke Backpackers in Kerikeri it was time to move on. Initially we were only going to stay 2 days in Kerikeri but Ella was not feeling too well so we decided to rest an extra day.
With Ella her usual hyperactive self again, we left the Backpackers at 10.30, praying the Cycle Gods would be gentle with us. 10.30 is a late start but we took our time to say goodbye to Kate and Duncan, the lovely couple that runs Hone Heke Backpackers who have made our stay the nicest experience. Kerikeri is not particularly our kind of town but its surroundings are beautiful and Hone Heke Backpackers definitely makes it worth the detour.
The road from Kerikeri to Paihia is rather easygoing and we made it in two hours to the docks to take the ferry to Russell.
Getting on the ferry with our two bikes and two buggies certainly was a challenge but Ella is enjoying every second of it as she hasn´t got to be in the buggy. She doesn´t know where to look first. At all the water splashing up, the boat moving away from the pier, the people on board, she is having the time of her life.
Getting the bikes and buggies off the ferry is even more complicated, why on earth are we carrying so much stuff with us? I should have just chucked one of the buggies overboard...
When we approach the Russell shore, we spot a group of dolphins at the horizon. On the banks we can see the Pohutokawas standing proud and it the midst of them a huge Ficus. Our captain tells us it´s not native but once we put up the tent, the first thing we do is get back to the beach to have a closer look at this giant. Its trunk is so twisted it seems to be in constant motion, a work of art only nature can produce. Russell is a very pretty little town with a long colonial history. The dolphins and the ficus made our day.
With Ella her usual hyperactive self again, we left the Backpackers at 10.30, praying the Cycle Gods would be gentle with us. 10.30 is a late start but we took our time to say goodbye to Kate and Duncan, the lovely couple that runs Hone Heke Backpackers who have made our stay the nicest experience. Kerikeri is not particularly our kind of town but its surroundings are beautiful and Hone Heke Backpackers definitely makes it worth the detour.
The road from Kerikeri to Paihia is rather easygoing and we made it in two hours to the docks to take the ferry to Russell.
Getting on the ferry with our two bikes and two buggies certainly was a challenge but Ella is enjoying every second of it as she hasn´t got to be in the buggy. She doesn´t know where to look first. At all the water splashing up, the boat moving away from the pier, the people on board, she is having the time of her life.
Getting the bikes and buggies off the ferry is even more complicated, why on earth are we carrying so much stuff with us? I should have just chucked one of the buggies overboard...
When we approach the Russell shore, we spot a group of dolphins at the horizon. On the banks we can see the Pohutokawas standing proud and it the midst of them a huge Ficus. Our captain tells us it´s not native but once we put up the tent, the first thing we do is get back to the beach to have a closer look at this giant. Its trunk is so twisted it seems to be in constant motion, a work of art only nature can produce. Russell is a very pretty little town with a long colonial history. The dolphins and the ficus made our day.
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Visit to Kerikeri Lodge and Puketi Forest
Today we visited the Kerikeri lodge and the Puketi Forest with Forest and Bird member Rod Brown who was so kind to show us all the activities the Northern branch of Forest and Bird carries out through and with the help of various other organizations that operate in the area. It seems that the collaboration between these various groups are bearing fruit as we could appreciate at the Lodge in Kerikeri. The main activity at the Lodge consists of growing native trees from seed to plants of up to 4 years in a neatly kept tree nursery. The shrubs and trees are sold to other conservation organizations and the profits in turn provide funds to manage the nature reserves in the Kerikeri area such as the Puketi Forest. The different works at the tree nursery are carefully planned and carried out by volunteers. It seemed to us a perfect way to try and preserve the native forests of New Zealand and thus its native fauna.
Rod Brown explained to us that New Zealand faces numerous problems that affect its forests which makes Forest and Birds work so important. Pest control for example in New Zealand means to control predators that have been introduced only recently but have thrived on defenseless native species. Rats, cats and possums represent a serious threat to many of the native birds. Possums for example have grown in numbers up to 3 to 4 million in the whole of New Zealand.
Farming is one of the most damaging activities to the natural habitat of many of New Zealand´s species. The excessive use of fertilizers and pesticides damages much of the natural environment and a programme to promote a reduction of its use proves beneficial for both the natural environment and the farming industry. Farmers are being made aware of the fact that residue of cattle should not be simply washed away in streams which affect the quality of fresh water all over New Zealand. Fonterra, New Zealand´s biggest dairy company, has even issued a deadline to farmers who are not complying with new and more environmental friendly standards. A growing awareness for environmental friendly farming are encouraging signs that things can improve and that company profits on the longer term will benefit all parties and also New Zealand´s image of provider of good quality products.
On a personal level, our visit to the Puketi Forest was something of a being reborn experience. To enter this majestic tropical forest, unknown to most overseas tourists, is like entering a whole new world. Our native European forest consists of 2, sometimes 3 levels of plants while the tropical forest of Puketi has 5 levels of plants. The canope is represented by so-called emergent trees like the Kauri, a colossal tree that dates back to the Jurassic age. It is impossible to explain what it feels like to walk among these giants, flanked by other species of trees like the dragon leaf, vines, ferns and numerous other plant species. You can easily spend days exploring just a fraction of this forest and not get bored. It has been a mind blowing experience to us and we hope to encourage many more people to visit, enjoy and help to preserve this impressive little piece of natural world.
Rod Brown explained to us that New Zealand faces numerous problems that affect its forests which makes Forest and Birds work so important. Pest control for example in New Zealand means to control predators that have been introduced only recently but have thrived on defenseless native species. Rats, cats and possums represent a serious threat to many of the native birds. Possums for example have grown in numbers up to 3 to 4 million in the whole of New Zealand.
Farming is one of the most damaging activities to the natural habitat of many of New Zealand´s species. The excessive use of fertilizers and pesticides damages much of the natural environment and a programme to promote a reduction of its use proves beneficial for both the natural environment and the farming industry. Farmers are being made aware of the fact that residue of cattle should not be simply washed away in streams which affect the quality of fresh water all over New Zealand. Fonterra, New Zealand´s biggest dairy company, has even issued a deadline to farmers who are not complying with new and more environmental friendly standards. A growing awareness for environmental friendly farming are encouraging signs that things can improve and that company profits on the longer term will benefit all parties and also New Zealand´s image of provider of good quality products.
On a personal level, our visit to the Puketi Forest was something of a being reborn experience. To enter this majestic tropical forest, unknown to most overseas tourists, is like entering a whole new world. Our native European forest consists of 2, sometimes 3 levels of plants while the tropical forest of Puketi has 5 levels of plants. The canope is represented by so-called emergent trees like the Kauri, a colossal tree that dates back to the Jurassic age. It is impossible to explain what it feels like to walk among these giants, flanked by other species of trees like the dragon leaf, vines, ferns and numerous other plant species. You can easily spend days exploring just a fraction of this forest and not get bored. It has been a mind blowing experience to us and we hope to encourage many more people to visit, enjoy and help to preserve this impressive little piece of natural world.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Wangharoa to Kerikeri
At 09.15 we said goodbye to Wangharoa and took off in the direction of Kerikeri, apparently a more touristy town with plenty of shops. We left more excited than other days as we were going to stop for a few days in Kerikeri. It was necessary we took a break because this was the 5th day in a row we were on our bikes and Ella in the buggy.
The road to leave Wangharoa was easygoing in the beginning but the wind turned and blew straight in our faces. We were warned of quite a steep hill once we would turn away from the riverbank and sure enough, there it was in front of us. This bloody hill turned out to be a wall of 2 km and it took us a lot of moral to reach the top.
We were over the moon and felt as strong as a thousand horses when we stood looking down on the valley below us. The views were stunning and a nice reward for our efforts. As we continued the road rolled forward but became increasingly more dangerous due to the lack of a shoulder and a sudden and strange change in driving behavior. All of a sudden cars did not care for us and passed fast and close.
A few kilometers a truck blew us both off the road and our day was ruined. I demanded the driver to come back as I wanted to smack the guy but I guess it was all a waste of precious energy.
After consulting the map we found a much less busier road into Kerikeri and we got there fine, although exhausted. After a few inquiries we found a beautifully located Backpackers called the Hone Heke Lodge. It is run by a lovely couple that will give you the warmest welcome and attend to your every need. The facilities are in perfect condition and there is a large common area where you can play pool, table tennis or just chill out and chat with other travelers. If you like a bit of fun during your stay, get one of the rooms near the area and you´ll be sure to have a great time. If on the other hand you would like to have a quieter stay, try to get one of the rooms further away and you´ll be absolutely fine.
Kerikeri is quite a lovely little town and perfect for us as it had a big supermarket where we could buy plenty of stuff that we will need for the coming weeks. Baby nappies are hard to find in the Far North.
The road to leave Wangharoa was easygoing in the beginning but the wind turned and blew straight in our faces. We were warned of quite a steep hill once we would turn away from the riverbank and sure enough, there it was in front of us. This bloody hill turned out to be a wall of 2 km and it took us a lot of moral to reach the top.
We were over the moon and felt as strong as a thousand horses when we stood looking down on the valley below us. The views were stunning and a nice reward for our efforts. As we continued the road rolled forward but became increasingly more dangerous due to the lack of a shoulder and a sudden and strange change in driving behavior. All of a sudden cars did not care for us and passed fast and close.
A few kilometers a truck blew us both off the road and our day was ruined. I demanded the driver to come back as I wanted to smack the guy but I guess it was all a waste of precious energy.
After consulting the map we found a much less busier road into Kerikeri and we got there fine, although exhausted. After a few inquiries we found a beautifully located Backpackers called the Hone Heke Lodge. It is run by a lovely couple that will give you the warmest welcome and attend to your every need. The facilities are in perfect condition and there is a large common area where you can play pool, table tennis or just chill out and chat with other travelers. If you like a bit of fun during your stay, get one of the rooms near the area and you´ll be sure to have a great time. If on the other hand you would like to have a quieter stay, try to get one of the rooms further away and you´ll be absolutely fine.
Kerikeri is quite a lovely little town and perfect for us as it had a big supermarket where we could buy plenty of stuff that we will need for the coming weeks. Baby nappies are hard to find in the Far North.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Hihi Beach to Wangharoa Bay
It is very clear to us now that we should not be doing more than 30 km per day. We might be able to do more but there are several reasons we should not push to do 50 km/day.
Ella is fine with cycling in the morning from 09.30 or 10.00 until 12.30 or 13.00 but that is the absolute maximum. If we have a long lunch break we might occasionally try to cycle a bit more in the afternoon but it is certainly not recommendable. Ella can have three hours of buggy but that is the limit. Also, after 13.00 the New Zealand sun is so fierce that you cannot expose a baby to this kind of radiation.
Vanessa and I also found out the hard way that cycling with Ella and the extra luggage that comes with travelling with a baby is tough, very tough. Vanessa pulls Ella´s buggy and I got the trolley with all the gear. I think all in all we are pulling about 80 kg and this hilly and windy country is such a big challenge that I honestly do not know if we can make it.
The first days I was obsessed with doing as much kilometers as possible but Vanessa put a stop to this nonsense and we slowed down the pace. Instead of focusing on the map and fixing the next destination, we now take it day by day. Cycling all of a sudden is becoming a more pleasant affair although we still tremble and shake when we appreciate the next hill in the distance.
Today the road to Wangharoa Bay was sweet and not too challenging. The scenery changes almost every km; rolling green fields with literally thousands of cows and sheep, pine forests, wetlands, estuaries with mangroves that come up to the tarmac, huge rock formations, and no one seems to live here. The place is bloody empty. There are hardly any villages, few farms and houses and the occasional car that passes. If you need some time to be on your own, come and have a look in New Zealand, you will soon be talking to the sheep. So we were in smooth cruise control heading for Wangharoa when 2,5 km from the town Ella started screaming that she had enough. We had to stop in the middle of mangroves without so much as a stain of shade in sight. Fortunately we had a magic muesli bar left and we got her back in the buggy to do the last effort. We got to a deserted motor camp run and owned by Dave, the nicest man you will ever meet. The kiwis that live in these remote areas all seem to possess the qualities that have become rare in many parts of the world. Their sense of humor and hospitality is beyond belief and something they share with the Irish. They always seem to take a mickey but without bad intentions and their kindness goes far beyond the warm welcome and a cheap joke. It is genuine, no strings attached generosity. People of the world, do not be afraid, the Kiwi is not being friendly so as for you to release the cash. The Kiwi will show his town, invite you to a beer, get you the best oysters, tell you stories about the past. The local fishermen gave us a guided tour, had a few beers with us and tried to make us believe some made up stories about the past. Absolutely brilliant. Wangharoa has two pubs and a harbor but you can have more fun here than in any other touristy place you will come across.
Back in the tent we were eaten alive by the most aggressive mosquitos you can imagine. Who cares, we just learned about a beautiful piece of New Zealand and its lovely people.
Ella is fine with cycling in the morning from 09.30 or 10.00 until 12.30 or 13.00 but that is the absolute maximum. If we have a long lunch break we might occasionally try to cycle a bit more in the afternoon but it is certainly not recommendable. Ella can have three hours of buggy but that is the limit. Also, after 13.00 the New Zealand sun is so fierce that you cannot expose a baby to this kind of radiation.
Vanessa and I also found out the hard way that cycling with Ella and the extra luggage that comes with travelling with a baby is tough, very tough. Vanessa pulls Ella´s buggy and I got the trolley with all the gear. I think all in all we are pulling about 80 kg and this hilly and windy country is such a big challenge that I honestly do not know if we can make it.
The first days I was obsessed with doing as much kilometers as possible but Vanessa put a stop to this nonsense and we slowed down the pace. Instead of focusing on the map and fixing the next destination, we now take it day by day. Cycling all of a sudden is becoming a more pleasant affair although we still tremble and shake when we appreciate the next hill in the distance.
Today the road to Wangharoa Bay was sweet and not too challenging. The scenery changes almost every km; rolling green fields with literally thousands of cows and sheep, pine forests, wetlands, estuaries with mangroves that come up to the tarmac, huge rock formations, and no one seems to live here. The place is bloody empty. There are hardly any villages, few farms and houses and the occasional car that passes. If you need some time to be on your own, come and have a look in New Zealand, you will soon be talking to the sheep. So we were in smooth cruise control heading for Wangharoa when 2,5 km from the town Ella started screaming that she had enough. We had to stop in the middle of mangroves without so much as a stain of shade in sight. Fortunately we had a magic muesli bar left and we got her back in the buggy to do the last effort. We got to a deserted motor camp run and owned by Dave, the nicest man you will ever meet. The kiwis that live in these remote areas all seem to possess the qualities that have become rare in many parts of the world. Their sense of humor and hospitality is beyond belief and something they share with the Irish. They always seem to take a mickey but without bad intentions and their kindness goes far beyond the warm welcome and a cheap joke. It is genuine, no strings attached generosity. People of the world, do not be afraid, the Kiwi is not being friendly so as for you to release the cash. The Kiwi will show his town, invite you to a beer, get you the best oysters, tell you stories about the past. The local fishermen gave us a guided tour, had a few beers with us and tried to make us believe some made up stories about the past. Absolutely brilliant. Wangharoa has two pubs and a harbor but you can have more fun here than in any other touristy place you will come across.
Back in the tent we were eaten alive by the most aggressive mosquitos you can imagine. Who cares, we just learned about a beautiful piece of New Zealand and its lovely people.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Awanui to Hihi Beach
November 4 of the year 2009 in our annals will be known as bad bum day. We had to pack the tent soaking wet yet again and when we got on our bikes we immediately realized that our precious behinds were going to give us serious aches. The first kilometers were not too bad but it quickly became quite hilly and by the time we got to Mangonui we knew we could not travel much further. Ella was not in the mood either so we stopped at a beautiful beach at Mangonui to have an extended lunch. The little bays here are stunning and it was nice and hot.
I do not think we would have gone another meter further if there would have been a campsite at Mangonui. No such luck. We had to get back on our bikes to try and reach Hihi Beach where according to the map there was a motorcamp. To get to Hihi Beach we had to take a detour of 6 km which at that point seemed to us like running a marathon at 40 degrees in a parka. According to the GPS it was another kilometer to get to the campsite at Hihi Beach but Ella was crying so hard that we just had to stop. We were trapped at 1 kilometer from our destination and Ella refusing to get back in the buggy. There was only one thing left to do. Vanessa took the baby up in her arms and I pushed both bikes along the road, The next 600 metres I managed to push the bicycles but then the road started climbing and I just could not manage to get up the hill. Vanessa kept walking to find some shade while I left one bike behind and pushed the other up the hill. Once we got up the hill, I went for the other bicycle. Don´t you just love an adventure?
When you get pushed to the limits of your physical abilities like on this day, arriving to a campsite with absolute beach front makes you feel like a million dollars. Nothing can beat the feeling of having overcome such a huge challenge. The beach might not be that special if you arrive in a campervan but to us it was magic, a flavor I cannot describe. To see our daughter as free as a bird on the beach looking in awe at every little detail, the sunset, the warm reception of our campsite hosts, a bottle of white wine to go with our noodles out of a plastic baggy…it is all worth it! Our neighbours were a lovely couple from Wellington that gave us plenty of advice for our journey further south. I hope we see them again so we can have a bottle of wine together. We fall asleep under a starry night and the sound of the waves in the background. This is the life.
I do not think we would have gone another meter further if there would have been a campsite at Mangonui. No such luck. We had to get back on our bikes to try and reach Hihi Beach where according to the map there was a motorcamp. To get to Hihi Beach we had to take a detour of 6 km which at that point seemed to us like running a marathon at 40 degrees in a parka. According to the GPS it was another kilometer to get to the campsite at Hihi Beach but Ella was crying so hard that we just had to stop. We were trapped at 1 kilometer from our destination and Ella refusing to get back in the buggy. There was only one thing left to do. Vanessa took the baby up in her arms and I pushed both bikes along the road, The next 600 metres I managed to push the bicycles but then the road started climbing and I just could not manage to get up the hill. Vanessa kept walking to find some shade while I left one bike behind and pushed the other up the hill. Once we got up the hill, I went for the other bicycle. Don´t you just love an adventure?
When you get pushed to the limits of your physical abilities like on this day, arriving to a campsite with absolute beach front makes you feel like a million dollars. Nothing can beat the feeling of having overcome such a huge challenge. The beach might not be that special if you arrive in a campervan but to us it was magic, a flavor I cannot describe. To see our daughter as free as a bird on the beach looking in awe at every little detail, the sunset, the warm reception of our campsite hosts, a bottle of white wine to go with our noodles out of a plastic baggy…it is all worth it! Our neighbours were a lovely couple from Wellington that gave us plenty of advice for our journey further south. I hope we see them again so we can have a bottle of wine together. We fall asleep under a starry night and the sound of the waves in the background. This is the life.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Pukenui to Awanui
After the 53 km of suffering yesterday, Vanessa and I realized that the baby and the load we are carrying are simply too heavy to allow us to do 50 km a day, not on these hills.
We decided to take it easier today and cycle up to Awanui, some 40 km further south. The weather was kind and the wind favorable so we had good hopes we would get to Awanui by noon.
Ella, however, was not in the mood and she started to complain. She wanted out. We found a spot with some shade from a huge palm tree so we set up the kitchen and had an early lunch. While we sat there a big 4x4 pulled up beside us and two young ladies got out the car. They had passed us but decided to turn back as they realized we were cycling with our daughter. We are rapidly becoming famous in the Far North.
Although the road to Awanui wasn´t too complicated, we were struggling again to get to our destination. Our bums were hurting – the heavy load makes you move a lot more on the saddle, I need not explain more – and any effort is painful. When we finally got to Awanui it took us a while to find a campsite but our patience paid off and we found the perfect place, Norfolk Motel, a beautiful motel with a beautiful campsite in the huge back garden. The village seemed a bit dismal and abandoned but the locals again were very friendly and helpful. We were in desperate need of a good night sleep and at 21.00 we were already tucked in.
We decided to take it easier today and cycle up to Awanui, some 40 km further south. The weather was kind and the wind favorable so we had good hopes we would get to Awanui by noon.
Ella, however, was not in the mood and she started to complain. She wanted out. We found a spot with some shade from a huge palm tree so we set up the kitchen and had an early lunch. While we sat there a big 4x4 pulled up beside us and two young ladies got out the car. They had passed us but decided to turn back as they realized we were cycling with our daughter. We are rapidly becoming famous in the Far North.
Although the road to Awanui wasn´t too complicated, we were struggling again to get to our destination. Our bums were hurting – the heavy load makes you move a lot more on the saddle, I need not explain more – and any effort is painful. When we finally got to Awanui it took us a while to find a campsite but our patience paid off and we found the perfect place, Norfolk Motel, a beautiful motel with a beautiful campsite in the huge back garden. The village seemed a bit dismal and abandoned but the locals again were very friendly and helpful. We were in desperate need of a good night sleep and at 21.00 we were already tucked in.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Waitiki Landing to Pukenui
Look at the weather forecast at any given day in New Zealand and the bloke on TV will predict the occasional shower.
It showered violently on us when we were packing the tent which meant it got soaked and had to come with us weighing a few kilos more. It was hard work to get the trolley with our equipment out of the wet grass of the campsite and on the road, and I for one was getting pretty nervous about our changes to succeed. It seemed an awful heavy load to cycle 5 months with. Well, there is no turning back now so we got on our way.
The first hills were easy but then the wind and rain claimed protagonism and every so often we both were literally blown off the road. The buggy and trolley were everywhere. A strong eastern wind produced the phenomenon of horizontal rains but the grandeur of the landscape here is so overwhelming you forget you’re struggling to get forward. At several points the Far North is so narrow you see enormous dune formations at your left and right. The estuaries seem to almost cut the land in two. After a few hours on our pushbikes Ella is giving first signs of fatigue and hunger. We decide to have lunch at what looked like an abandoned church. We hide from the wind behind the main building and let Ella have a good runaround.
We struggled to cycle to Pukenui but we had no choice. There is nothing out here and this is the first village on the map. All the other place names prior to Pukenui turn out to be just a house, school or Maori community with no amenities whatsoever. We arrive exhausted at a well kept campsite run by Mike, our friendly host.
We set up the tent, get a perfect coffee in the only bar of the town and chat with the local liquor store owner. New Zealand must hold the world record of friendliest people per m2. Everywhere we go we are received with genuine hospitality and good humour.
We visit the harbour in the inmense bay but decide to hit the sack early. All in all it was a good day and we are both satisfied we got through the first day in one piece.
It showered violently on us when we were packing the tent which meant it got soaked and had to come with us weighing a few kilos more. It was hard work to get the trolley with our equipment out of the wet grass of the campsite and on the road, and I for one was getting pretty nervous about our changes to succeed. It seemed an awful heavy load to cycle 5 months with. Well, there is no turning back now so we got on our way.
The first hills were easy but then the wind and rain claimed protagonism and every so often we both were literally blown off the road. The buggy and trolley were everywhere. A strong eastern wind produced the phenomenon of horizontal rains but the grandeur of the landscape here is so overwhelming you forget you’re struggling to get forward. At several points the Far North is so narrow you see enormous dune formations at your left and right. The estuaries seem to almost cut the land in two. After a few hours on our pushbikes Ella is giving first signs of fatigue and hunger. We decide to have lunch at what looked like an abandoned church. We hide from the wind behind the main building and let Ella have a good runaround.
We struggled to cycle to Pukenui but we had no choice. There is nothing out here and this is the first village on the map. All the other place names prior to Pukenui turn out to be just a house, school or Maori community with no amenities whatsoever. We arrive exhausted at a well kept campsite run by Mike, our friendly host.
We set up the tent, get a perfect coffee in the only bar of the town and chat with the local liquor store owner. New Zealand must hold the world record of friendliest people per m2. Everywhere we go we are received with genuine hospitality and good humour.
We visit the harbour in the inmense bay but decide to hit the sack early. All in all it was a good day and we are both satisfied we got through the first day in one piece.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Cape Reinga
On 31 October, Luke, Ellis, Vanessa, Ella and Wouter embarked on their journey to Cape Reinga in a car packed with two bicycles, two buggies and all of the equipment we were going to need to cycle from Cape Reinga to Bluff. We made a stopover in Paihia where we stayed for the night before leaving the next morning at 10.00 for the northern most point of Aotearoa. It took as a lot longer than we thought to get to the Cape and we didn´t get there until 13.00.
To get to these sacred Maori grounds, the bewildered tourist needs to cover the last 22 km on challenging roads in sometimes very poor conditions. For about 10 km, the road is not sealed and going at 30 km/h proves to be a serious test for any loose body parts of your car and yourself. But any Kiwi will tell you “it´s all good, no worries”. Do not believe them, they are lying!
Cape Reinga is a spectacular piece of raw nature that will blow you sideways; it is absolutely magnificent to see how the Tasman Sea and the Pacific clash and their green and blue colors meet at mid-sea. Take your time to absorb the magnitude of the place and marvel at the massive dunes on the West coast and the raggedy cliffs of the East coast.
Our idea was to start our cycle tour here but we had take the tough decision to go back to Waitiki as we would never had made it to a campsite on time. Our belated arrival at Cape Reinga and the 5 km of gravel road under construction would have made our first day of cycling a living hell. So we cheated, sorry everyone. We put up the tent at Waitiki Landing and prepared for our first day of cycling.
The scenery between Cape Reinga and Waitiki Landing is of amazing beauty but this is definitely no easy place to survive, which makes the people who live here all the more friendly and genuinely warm. You would not want to miss it for the world.
To get to these sacred Maori grounds, the bewildered tourist needs to cover the last 22 km on challenging roads in sometimes very poor conditions. For about 10 km, the road is not sealed and going at 30 km/h proves to be a serious test for any loose body parts of your car and yourself. But any Kiwi will tell you “it´s all good, no worries”. Do not believe them, they are lying!
Cape Reinga is a spectacular piece of raw nature that will blow you sideways; it is absolutely magnificent to see how the Tasman Sea and the Pacific clash and their green and blue colors meet at mid-sea. Take your time to absorb the magnitude of the place and marvel at the massive dunes on the West coast and the raggedy cliffs of the East coast.
Our idea was to start our cycle tour here but we had take the tough decision to go back to Waitiki as we would never had made it to a campsite on time. Our belated arrival at Cape Reinga and the 5 km of gravel road under construction would have made our first day of cycling a living hell. So we cheated, sorry everyone. We put up the tent at Waitiki Landing and prepared for our first day of cycling.
The scenery between Cape Reinga and Waitiki Landing is of amazing beauty but this is definitely no easy place to survive, which makes the people who live here all the more friendly and genuinely warm. You would not want to miss it for the world.
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