Sunday, January 10, 2010

Charleston to Hokitika

We have not been able to update the blog since Charleston but this new post will cover the days we spent cycling from Charleston to Punakaiki, Punakaiki to Barrytown, then to Greymouth and from Greymouth to Hokitika where we are stuck once again because of the rain. The road south of us is flooded and closed so we are waiting for the latest weather forecast. Apparantly, tomorrow the situation will improve so we might just give it a go. We decided to take it very easy so from Hokitika to Frans Jozef Glacier we calculated 5 days of cycling.

Cycling from Charleston to Punakaiki was beautiful. The day before we had arrived early in Charleston and we had time to do one of the coastal walks. I would advice everyone to stop in this little town (no shops) and do the coastal walk because it is spectacular. You walk through 3 meter high flax (an agave type plant but it has no relation) along muddy paths up to the rugged coast. The views are stunning and the Tasman Sea is extremely rough. From the top of the cliffs we could see sea lions swim in the massive swell. The noise of the waves crushing into the rocks is what a WWII bombing must have sound like.

In order to get out of Charleston and onto the coast road we had to climb some serious hills. Vanessa did well because I was not able to follow her in this mountainous area. By the time I struggled my way over the last hill, I lost sight of Vanessa. The downhill onto the West Coast Highway 6 is a jawdropping experience. Looking north we saw the silhouettes of the rugged coastline through the early morning mist. There was hardly any traffic and the wind was favourable. The mountains on our left are covered with subtropical forest; the road flattens out as we move further south; the sounds of the waves is the only noise around and the mist slowly makes way for an ever brighter sun. I am obviously no poet but this place gets you poetic, no doubt this must be good for the soul.
We got to Punakaiki at a very cyclist unfriendly campsite but who cares? We had a massive burger in the local tavern and went to see those famous pancake rocks and blowholes...some special place for gay people to gather? Although it is ridiculously touristy, it is actually well worth a visit. The rock formations are very peculiar and the sea makes for some impressive spectacle here by crushing in underneath the rocks against the coast.

The next morning we tried to get to Greymouth but after 16 km the rain was so heavy we decided to stop in the All Nations Hotel in Barrytown and we wouldn´t regret it. No sooner had we stopped or the rain turned into a vicious thunder storm. The owners of the place are very friendly and later that evening we had some good laughs and talks with the locals. Good vibes all around and one of those places we would have missed if it wasn´t for the rain.

From Barrytown to Greymouth was only 22 km and we got there in no time and in good weather. We were warned about Greymouth that it was an ugly town but we didn´t think so. We enjoyed walking around in the streets. We got a cabin in the motorcamp and met with a german couple with two babies, of ten months and two and a half years old...RESPECT!!!! We had a lot to talk about and exchanged ideas and experiences. We had dinner. shared wine and we had a great time. The next day the weather was supposed to be terrible but we got lucky. After heaving breakfast and family photos with our german friends which we hope to see again in Queenstown (they decided to cross over to Christchurch while we head further south), we got on our iron horses and head to Hokitika. Not much to tell about this day. 40 km of flat roads along a flat coast. Definitely not ugly but after the spectacular scenery of the days before, we were spoilt.

And here we are still, in Hokitika. The rain is coming like I have never seen before. The streets and roads are flooded. Hopefully tomorrow we can continue south.

THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS HAVE NOT BEEN CHECKED. SOME PHOTOS ARE THUS NOT EXACTLY EXHIBITION MATERIAL (we will clean this post up when we have more time and easy internet access)

Westport to Charleston



Charleston to Punakaiki



Punakaiki to Barrytown



Barrytown to Greymouth



Greymouth to Hokitika

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